It took me all morning repairing the irreparable jeans and practiced my embroidery stitches on them.

We went to John’s to send a telex to confirm our arrival and then went shopping. Bought some lovely veg and sausages for dinner.

When we got back we were welcomed by our 2 little boys, so I bought some more of the hand painted cards and some postcards. There was one sorrowful looking lad who said he hadn’t sold anything by the end of the day so he would make us a good price for an elephant. I got a lovely podgy Nellie for 500CFA = £1. Then later on Garry couldn’t resist buying a smaller set of 5 for 1500. I also had my eye on an intricately engraved round camel box but we ended up buying a square one too for 1000CFA. All our souvenir buying done relaxing by the side of the van, leisurely discussing and re-discussing until the price is met in the middle and all parties happy.

After showering and a walk along the beach Garry took some photographs and then we cooked sausage mach and onions with African baked beans - not the same taste as Heinz at all. We were naughty little campers and stayed up till midnight talking about school mainly and playing Woudwa over a shared coke.

During the night Des developed the same rash as Jackie, so first thing they disappeared to the doctors. We swam in the clear blue waters before doing more mundane tasks such as washing.

Bought some fresh coconuts from one dancing lady and she gave us another for nothing, then picked up a piece of stale bread I had thrown away - I hope she wasn’t that desperate! Jackie looking quite ill, arrived on her own at about 1 - to say they both had German measles and on the way their engine had seized. Des had cross-threaded an oil filter that he changed the previous night. So Garry took Jackie back to Robinsons for an air conditioned room and then went to find Des, who was asleep in the back of the van while some bush mechanics set to work by the side of the road. During this time I sat reading and was joined by a friendly man who taught me a new game with the Woudwa board. It started to rain so Bruno took me in his van and started teaching me French. Garry and Des returned at sunset, what would have been a major expensive catastrophe in England had been quickly solved!, the mechanics changed a whole set of bearings for £50 and a tee-shirt. We then went for a drink in the bar and had hot-dog sausages and French bread for dinner followed by some fresh coconut. We played cards in the van as it started raining again.

Had a Sunday morning lie in bed! For some reason we didn’t wake up until 9.45 with the sun beating down on our tin box. The beach was busy with both colour bodies enjoying the sea and we spent most of the day writing long-awaited letters: In-between times, chatting to the many vendors who educatedly made their sales pitches, playing on our consciences. One Arab tried to sell us a beautiful chess board in camel leather with intricate carvings on, the problem was, it had too many squares! Garry bought a whopper of a toureg sword for 3500CFA and a watch and his wallet! The starting price was 30,000CFA. As the day neared is end and the vendors relaxed with us, one game me a small camel box as a cadeaux, so I returned the compliment with a nice pen. Their generosity to us, with all our goodies, is quite touching and I hope taught me a life-time lesson.

The sunset bought with it dramatic storm clouds that flattened our world to ceiling height before sailing away on the wind, to leave us with a clear starry night.

Thinking I was cooking the bland unmarked packet of farmhouse casserole, I added Oxo, which turned out to kill the actual sweet and sour. I therefore ended up eating bread and potatoes for dinner, Garry suffered the concoction that even the dogs refused to eat. I did some drawing while Garry read Dickens then we played Pontoon for peanuts.

After breakfast we enjoyed a swim and then sat reading, both engrossed in our Dickens books then we went out to the supermarket for a few bits. Outside we bought a huge bag of fruit and veg for £2 then the lady gave us some bananas, limes and avocados for nothing. So lunch was Avocado and Cream cheese.

Stopped in to see how Des and Jackie were and they were both in bed, still very poorly. So we gave them some of our fruit and left them with our shortwave radio to listen to.

When we got back to the campsite we spent most of the afternoon talking to a very despondent Bruno - he has been waiting a month now for his springs to be flown from France and they have been lost somewhere along the way. Also his lovely dog, Una is sick and hasn’t eaten for 2 days so we stood guard to stop the other dogs going near while Bruno tried unsuccessfully to feed her by hand.

Garry cooked some good pork chops and then we treated ourselves with a pot of chocolate ice-cream. Then I learnt some French while Garry went to Old London with David Copperfield.

Today, is Des and Jackie’s 2nd wedding anniversary, we went round first thing to see if they were fit enough to travel tomorrow but they still haven’t been able to keep any food down. Before this we had breakfast to save time but we should have known better by now!

From the convalescences we went to John’s to send a telex to Nigeria delaying our arrival. We then changed up some money and got some shopping for the sick. I also bought them some flowers and was bowled over by the enthusiastic flower sellers! We tried to find the Post office but the block was closed to traffic so I walked in vain as I couldn’t find it. I had to wait a while for the President and his Entourage to drive past as not even pedestrians are allowed to walk. It was a boiling hot day so we swam twice to cool down in-between writing a letter.

Back again to John’s office but trust our luck they couldn’t get through. Stopped off to visit the sick and drank some wine on their behalf to celebrate their anniversary. Had a lovely a-la-carte dinner; avocado, carrot and spring onion in mayonnaise garnished with parsley! Then Garry surpassed us with a great Chilli and Potatoes. After showering we read then walked admiring the sky.

Got up late at 8.30, so didn’t have any breakfast and rushed down to John’s but they still couldn’t get the telex through to Lagos. We then made a big mistake of taking Garry to a so-called Paris coiffure, who hacked at him with a razor and blunt scissors; he was not amused and wished it was left long. God Bless Lisa’s talent! We then went to the Pond Post Office, which didn’t look like a letter had passed successfully through it for many a decade. I’d be interested to know if anyone received our letters (12 letters of many hours work).

When we got back I had a headache and feel asleep immediately for an hour or so. We then went for a drink at the bar and go chatting to men about buying Landy. We said we would meet him tomorrow at the bank.

For the rest of the day, what was left I cleaned out the front of Landy and she did look a pretty young thing. After this Garry got talking to some Aussies and they turned out to be a really great bunch. They invited us down to Alice’s, another camp/motel with a huge wooden barn that has a great Ghanaian group playing beaty traditional stuff. There was some great dancing going on too. They have 2 lovely monkeys there and although we didn’t see him a lion. Lasan made some pudding when we got back and we talked for hours.

On boy was I ill in the night. I had a fever but was so freezing cold I had all the sheets and towels on and was fully clothed. Garry was sweet and made the bed up in the back when he got up and didn’t tell me that he felt ill as well. We just laid around all day and didn’t know what to do with ourselves. Later we went over to talk to Flash before the others got back from town. Des and Jackie stopped by to say we had a telex to go to Nigeria on Tuesday; that works out quite nicely. They had been back to the doctors and he said they had had Malaria and not German measles!

Just as the sun was setting we went for a drink to Mamma’s, a tiny wooden shack, run naturally by a big jolly Mamma, who kept calling Garry, Papa. We sat outside and watched the village activities, Mamma scaling fish and the men repairing their nets.

In the evening, we joined the Aussies and had quite a laugh. Liza who has trained as a Zoologist went into hysterics when we said we had spotted the bird with long trailing feathers in Mali. She got out her book and its called a standard Jackjay.

I still felt rough so went to bed at about 9. Garry stayed with them till late and they communally cooked, savoury mince, yoghurt pancakes, sauté potatoes and pineapple fritters.

I was sick in the night and didn’t get much sleep at all, but in the morning I felt a bit better and was starving - a good sign. We went down to the beach and it was so hot and Ross bought down his Kayak, Flash tried for ages to get the hang of turning it but nearly drowned. Liza and Peter had a go and were quite good. Some boys were selling a lovely bright green chameleon and were swinging it on a piece of string cos they were frightened to touch it. We eventually persuaded them that it wouldn’t hurt them and they walked off with it in their hand. Afterwards I did a drawing outside.

We then went down to the town, got some more money then went to the supermarket for a few bits - but we got carried away and didn’t have enough money to pay and Garry had to run out to get hold of a money changer quickly! Afterwards we went in search of the Amex Office to get some travellers cheques, it was a joke to find and eventually I found myself in a building with 10 unmarked doors to choose from. From there, after waiting 1 hour I had to go to the bank to collect the Travellers Cheques - another performance. There, we met a Cameroon man that had lived in America and was a real character. He sold us some cigs and an old lady statue of a queen with a history to go with it. When we got back we spent the evening again with the others and we cooked another great meal, Pork Chops with pineapple and cheese sauce, carrots and potatoes.

When we woke up it was pouring down with rain so we stayed in bed longer and enjoyed the cool climate. Then quickly dressed and ran to the café for breakfast. It was a bit of a disaster as the tea was like hot water and I caught them picking mould off the jam in the kitchen. So Garry got our jam and teabags!.

So we came back to town and went to say goodbye to John and thanked him for all his help. Went from there to change £20 and the changer tried to short change us about 5 times. Got some petrol and bought croissants then went back to the campsite where everyone was playing games.

We went down to Alice’s to collect Des and Jackie on our way to Benin, but they didn’t want to take their tent down in the rain so asked if we could leave it till tomorrow. The rain got heavier so we decided to leave going until Sunday and Jackie was restless so they moved down to Alice’s for the night.

It turned brighter in the afternoon and we pulled our Rover next to the other 2 and had a group photo session.

Spent the evening playing cards and then cooked Steak and sauté potatoes and petit pois - what a feast. The dogs enjoyed the leftovers too. Went to bed fairly early.

It was raining again when we woke up but we still packed everything away, showered and said goodbye to everyone.

Watched a huge roll-on-roll-off ship coming into Port and there were many planes and helicopters hovering above us. Garry started to play cards and 1 game lasted till evening, so I played Jin Rummy with Ross, Liza and Flash.

The rain finally stopped in the evening but it brought a profusion of mosquitoes. We tried to get a bulk deal on frites and French bread from the restaurant but they didn’t give us enough so Garry cooked up Rice, Tina & Sweetcorn for everyone. We played the calabash game and then went back to the beach to sleep in the breeze at about 10.

Cleaned the van up, after all the rain everything was damp and sandy. Garry oiled and re-arranged the jemes and by 10, we had again bid goodbye to our friends then we were on the road in bright sunshine with Des and Lady Jackie is in a bad mood. Had a lovely drive to the border, passed a huge lake where there were tiny villages built on stilts on the marshy parts. At the border we had no problems and were cleared within ½ hour for the Togo side. As we approached the Benin border Garry drove about 5 feet past the stop sign and a jumped up officer screamed that we would have to pay a 2000CFA fine, but we got it down to a 1000 in the end. At the customs, they have a moving neon sign on the outside of their rough building! After a lot of form filling, it took about an hour to get through and no-one searched us, stopped for a beer a little further on, then after about an hour found the campsite, a beautiful tiny place with potted plants in rows. The water is drawn from a well and showers are a bucket but who cares. It confessed to have a vegetarian restaurant but all they had was rice, salad and omelettes, so we cooked our own scrambled eggs, tinned tomatoes and sauté potatoes and onions. Great stuff. I did a heap of washing and then in the evening we had a game of scrabble.

D-Day, we got up early and prepared the vehicles for Nigeria. We arranged to meet the man for Caleb Brett at 2, so we were ready much too early; decided to have a look round Cotonou first on the way. It was a dirty and poor town and we drove round for ages before we found a nice hotel to have a coffee. We all nervously discussed tactics for the border. Garry said he felt like the 1st day of selling. Very soon we were all at the border and after about an hour were cleared through the Benin side. We then had to queue for about ½ hour to get to the largest so far customs office. It was pouring down with rain and although we saw many people having a hard time, things went smoothly. Only had to change 100 dollars per car instead of per person. As we were about to be searched an extremely smart Alhayi presented himself and told the officers it wasn’t necessary and they showed great respect for him.

We were expecting to see armed robbers lining up by the side of the road gammed with traffic. At our first police stop, a few metres from the border, Garry and Des had to go back to the border to get another stamp. There was 12 stops in all, but they surprised us with their friendly attitude, at the Plant Quarantine stop they looked in the back, but that was all. It was raining so hard that the road was flooded about 4 inches for miles along the motorway. Had a welcoming reception at the office by Gordon Atkinson and then it took us 2 hours to drive 2kms of badly flooded road, knee-high. Cars were broken down everywhere and left where they stopped. The flat was lovely with a cut couple of housekeepers. Went back out in 1 land rover to meet Gordon at the boat club and he gave us all dinner; Steak and Kidney Pie!

We got up at about 8 (7 with the hour difference) and Alfred made us tea and toast. At 9.30 a man from Caleb Brett arrived and took Des and Jackie to the Cameroon Embassy. Alfred came with us to the supermarket and we were so surprised how friendly and things were easy. We bought some great groceries and a frying pan for £1.50.

In the afternoon we went to the SCOA Land Rover garage to ask if they could help us with some welding; we are worried about having all the Jerry cans on one side as we will soon have to fill them up cos Diesel in Nigeria is so cheap - 10p per litre. We though about taking the jerry can holder off and cutting a hole in the other side between wheels to fit a box to hold 3 cans. The garage sent us over the road to a very modern aluminium factory. After some discussions they told us to go to their other depot that specialises in vehicle work - so one worker came with us to show us the way. They were very friendly and unbelievably efficient - they told us to come back at 7.30 in the morning.

We luxuriated in a hot bath at the flat then as we were about to leave to see Gordon, an extremely posh Nigerian lady came down from the flat above, and invites us up for a drink. Gordon and a colleague took us to a Lebanese restaurant and we ate many small dishes of different spicy foods - followed by Irish coffee. When we got back we went up to see Des and Jackie with the Nigerians. They are so upper class and it was difficult talking to them about their people as they are a world apart, and more used to talking about Polo and Speed boats!

Des and Jackie were going to leave on their own tomorrow but the people upstairs invited them to a craft fair so they changed their minds very quickly!

We got up at 6 and went down to Alumean for 7.30. They immediately started measuring up to cut the hole for the Jerries but we panicked, when we saw them marking the area free hand! Also it would mean that the cans would stick out 15cms from the body so discussed the idea of putting in a 3rd tank or making a roof rack for the, but it got much too complicated so we decided to leave it and to store the full cans inside, diesel smell or not! As we had spare Nira and time we went back to SCOA and asked if they could do a service. Three mechanics started immediately and within an hour had finished a good job. They asked Garry if his Auntie (me) would like to wait in the office! They only charged 75 Nira (£7.50) although we did supply the parts it was really cheap. For lunch we made the mistake of going to a burger bar and the food was a bit grotty.

I’ve got a stinking cold so I didn’t do much in the afternoon. Garry cleaned out the fridge. Alfred and Somala did a load of washing for us that was a great help, using hot water and washing machine - our clothes changed from brown to white!

We went to the Boat club to thank Gordon for all his help and again he invited us for dinner there; it was the Italian’s turn to cater for everyone but it wasn’t very nice. We were in bed for 9.30 but first a security guard got us up - wanting dash then at 11 Des and Jackie work us up to let them in - they had been upstairs again and were very impressed by their new friends. We thought they were tucked up in bed!

Got up at 5.30 and after bathing and leaving a thank-you card for the Calvins, we were ready to leave by 6.30. On the way out I got annoyed with the security guards for not letting us leave until we dashed them! Although we were dreading getting through the traffic out of Lagos it went without a hitch and soon we were on a good main road towards Benin City. There were quite a few police checks but this time they either waved us through or stopped us for a chat. The drivers are maniacs and a speeding coach came within inches of ploughing into us. Also a minibus pulled straight out on Des and then stopped to unload his passengers. Everyone waved to us and shouted “Welcome” as we passed; what a bad job the media have made of reporting about Nigeria. Stopped in a little town for bread and Garry was jokingly asked if he wanted to buy a wife. The roars of laughter could be heard in the next road.

The motorway got worst with stretches of broken up and pot-holed. At one stage a rive runs across the road! There were cars driving on both sides of the road in both directions at very high speeds. As we approached Enugu it poured down but we managed to find a hotel straight away for only £6 per night. We ate in the tiny restaurant with Bob Marley at full volume. Whenever we asked for anything, the manager said “of course, this is Panafric”. When Des and Jackie said they were veggies, he offered them Limes and Jam, then came back 10 minutes later with ketchup and water soup and said it was a surprise. We had Oxtail Soup, mixed grill with real sausages and chips and crème caramel for £1.50. Had lots to drink and even had a laugh with Des and Jackie.

Couldn’t bath or shower, no plug or shower head - this is Panafric! Had a lovely full breakfast then tried to find a shop for food but gave up. From Enugu to the border the road was pot-holed - we stopped for Diesel and filled up all our tanks and Des as well for £15. We ate as we were driving along as time was running out and we had 200k still to go to the border. We ate ground nuts and bananas. As we neared the border, there were more checks, plant quarantine, radio licensing as well as police, army and customs but they were friendly and no problem. We got to the Tkok border at about 4.30, it was a tiny post with a pretty river surrounded by forest, but inside was different; they were extremely official, something like the K.G.B. and asked lots of pertinent questions. Des was given a grilling for having 2 passports but luckily they didn’t ask to see our forged insurance! A poster on the wall threatened everyone to keep their mouth shut about Nigeria. After an hour, we were finished and left Nigeria across the bridge to Cameroon. Their post was less organised and one man told us the diesel would be confiscated but another man took over and luckily he didn’t mention it. While we were being seen, a whistle was blown and the whole town stood to attention while the flag was removed. It was 6.30 by the time we had finished and we had 60k to go before the next town that had camping. The road was a mud track and we found ourselves driving in the dark and the rain, the road became very slippery and we skidded several times. We were stopped quite a lot too and reached Mamfe at 9.30 after several wrong directions we found a hotel and haggled with them for us to camp outside. They cooked us omelette and chips for £3 each. What a long day!

We didn’t wake up until 9.30 - had a better nights sleep in Landy than the lovely bed in Lagos! Des and Jackie left for Duala and we arranged to meet them there. They had a lovely chimp called Jackie at the site, who gently tried to get my bracelet and ring off. They let her out of her cage and she immediately drank our coffee then jumped inside Landy and started eating a loaf of bread! When they wanted to charge us for water as well as £6 for us to stay that night we packed away and left! We set off for Dschung on a minor road - just a mud track, we were having a pleasant drive, although bumpy through tiny villages in the mountains. When we took the wrong turning and found ourselves on a slippery mud track just wide enough with a sheer drop on one side. Landy was struggling up the rocky incline when I asked the way and found out it was a dead end. We had to turn round. Garry was white with fear as Rover slipped down and got stuck in soft mud on the bank of the mountain. I got out and a local kid helped us with sand ladders. It was a hair-raising moment as Garry had little control on the steep slippery surface that I was having difficulty standing on! The way down was just as bad as it started raining. We were just looking for a place to camp, as it was now getting dark when a loaded Ford pickup stopped and we were questioned in the torrential rain by the Sous Prefect, a soldier also told us to take him to Dschung, so we slipped and climbed in the dark and rain the 40k there, following the Ford pickup who sped along. When we arrived we couldn’t find a hotel and eventually a man took us to a large hotel. It was very expensive £20, but we didn’t have much choice. Ate an awful meal there and got stuck talking to a horrid little Swiss man.

The room was cold, damp and very small so we weren’t very happy when they refused our travellers cheques and told us to go to the bank to change them for them, after all the money it cost. In the grotty bank, with little children washing in the office I was eventually sent to the manager, who thought travellers cheques were personal cheques I had ripped out of my cheque book. After an hour and a half and a charge of £7 I got my money and returned to the Central Climatique to settle our bill. With such a bad start to Cameroon we decided to head straight to Duala. The road was still a mud track and after a couple of hours pulled off to have lunch. It made me feel much better and after that the road improved until we found ourselves on a perfect tarmac road complete with white lines.

At one town we were amazed to see a very modern hotel and stopped for a drink, it was run by a french man but it was £20 per night, so we drove on. At Loum, we asked the Sous Prefect where the camping was and he shouted at us to go away. Further on a man got in to show us to the hotel. It was a grotty place and the manager announced with a straight face that he would charge £20 for us to camp in the dirt car park (rooms were only 9000CFA!) Stunned - we continued on our way and a little further on we found another hotel and haggled the camping price down to 700CFA. The boys here were friendly and I gave them coffee while we chatted. I cooked a baby food dinner of tinned mince and onions and boiled potatoes and we went to bed early, 8pm, to read and for me to catch up writing this bloody diary.

I had a bad nights sleep and woke foul tempered, aching all over and blaming Garry for hogging the bed. But later on when I took my temperature and it was 101°F. I realised it was something more than that.

We gave John Paul, the boy from the hotel a lift to Tiko, near Douala. It was excellent road all the way but at every police check they pulled us over and checked all our documents. None of them understand their own country’s visa and didn’t spot that insurance didn’t cover Cameroon.

We drove straight through Tiko without finding a campsite and arrived in Limbe at 12 and drove for ages trying to find a hotel that would allow us to camp in their grounds. All four wouldn’t let us but the last directed us to the botanical gardens, where they were more than happy to let us camp free of charge. It’s a beautiful spot, full of unusual species of trees with a fast flowing stream going through the centre. I walked along this and got chatting to a group of blokes fishing who showed me their catch and pointed out the different fish swimming. Later I strolled over a bank trying to get to the coast and found myself in natures own treasure chest - a bowl totally grown over with ivy that looked like a blanket had spread over the trees and all, but the jewels were the many brightly coloured birds. As the day drew on I felt quite ill but Garry waited on me and I crashed out to feel sorry for myself!

I still felt rough but my temperature was down to 100°F and I just ached, so again poor Garry did the bed and made breakfast. We had many visitors pop over for a chat. Bob, the man I started talking to while he was fishing came back at about 10.30 and he and Garry went to town to buy bread and cigs.

Garry had been trying to “snap” birds with the 500 and tripod, and I got up to sit outside in the breeze at about 12. Garry came back with sugared bofi balls, the size of a fish and lovely fresh French sticks.

I felt a bit better in the afternoon and so we went for a walk around the beautiful gardens with Bob and a watchman pointing out the different birds but its so hard trying to photograph them. There were palm birds, bright yellow, red and black parrots. Big powder blue ones, tiny finches of red and black, black and while and birds with red tails as well as many kingfishers of different colours and lots of doves. The gardens are immaculately kept, but naturally set on a lawn with the stream through the centre.

I cooked soup, then Tuna, sweet corn and rice, while Garry, moaning all the while, did some washing. After dinner, Garry first had the pleasure then I, of our worse shower so far, it was in a little wooden shed, filthy and full of cobwebs with a sign “please keep clean”! The problem was it started out in life being a squat toilet and you had to balance around it. There was a heavy storm all evening and as we were parked under a tree, the falling rain sounded like a drum and kept me awake.

The pain in my neck was still as bad, but I felt better in myself so we decided to leave for Douala. As we were having breakfast, joined by Bob and A.N. Other, an Englishman in charge of the Botanical garden project came to introduce himself and explained that Cameroon is the most important country in Africa in terms of variety of trees and that scientists are only realising its importance, and the realising the art of bush medicine. They are really trying to do something about conservation before its too late.

Had a good drive to Duoala but took the wrong road out and made a detour until we reached Edea and crossed a vast river where some boys tried to sell us a live crocodile. We stopped in a bar for lunch but they wanted £5 each for chicken and chips, so we just had a drink and then bought a kebab from a mamma with a huge bowl on her head.

The 150km road to Kribe was just a mud track but all along the way there was heavy machinery and evidence of a major road in progress. We haven’t seen such professional road building in Africa and we were worried that we would find a huge Butlins holiday resort at the other end. But it was a beautiful town and the tourist office gave us some addresses of hotels. Eventually we found a simple one on the beach who allowed us to camp there as long as we had dinner. They had some well kept dogs, cats, chickens and an African grey that mimicked the yap of the poodle. Had a drink on the terrace as the sunset and then washed and had chicken and chips and salad for dinner, while watching Cameroon TV -1/2 French and ½ English.

Got up at 7.30 and hurriedly packed away as around where we parked are tiny ants that give a nasty bit like a stinging nettle. Had a coffee in the hotel and they gave us a 25 litre drum of milk to help ourselves for the coffee. Went into Kribe town and stopped at the market - with much communication problems, I bought potatoes, tomatoes, eggs, ground nut, onions and cheese, while Garry bought some hose to siphon the diesel into the tank.

We set off down the coast towards Equatorial Guinea border and were stopped by a boy, whom we thought wanted a lift but after driving with him for about 20kms discovered he wanted to show us a nice beach then be take home that day. His name was Jules and he did show us a beautiful secluded spot and we chatted over coffee with him before taking him back home. After that we turned round again and found our own section of beach called “Plaze Romantique” and camped up. The house nearby is lived in by friendly pygmies, and the eldest son, Jaque, is acting father to about 12 kids and he’s only 22 years old. About ½ km from here there’s a German couple with an East German, who’ve been camping there for about 3½ months and fallen in love with the place and people so much that after their overland trip to Tanzania, they are moving back here permanently to buy a fishing boat. We played frisbee on the beach with Cyril and some of the smaller children but I felt rough so didn’t play for long. Garry and the others got soaked cos it kept going in the sea.

YUK - what a long awful night. I had a really bad fever and went from freezing to boiling all night. I had a temperature of over 102°F and had some horrible nightmares. Garry didn’t get much sleep either as he kept taking my temperature. He got up as soon as it was light and started reading all the medicine books. I took 4 Nivaquine and then Garry made me a cup of tea but I was sick. Christian came down with a huge 4lb Barracuda for dinner. Jaque and all the children were really worried about me and I kept seeing their little sympathetic faces peering in to me.

I felt a bit better in the afternoon so Garry and Christian went to town for some food and left me sitting on the beach with Cyril, who gave me a dried coconut to make me feel better. But I felt cold again and laid down on the sand to sleep. They drove back on the beach and had to make several attempts to get over the soft sand to where we had parked. I climbed straight back in and had a temperature again of 102 and was sick a couple of times, so Garry went up to the Germans for 3 Fansidar (horse tablets). But after an hour I threw them up, so we don’t know if they will work. Garry and Jaque cooked ½ the fish and I could hear them having a great time together. They said the fish was really good, like a meat steak with a fishy taste. Not quite what I fancied at the time though!

When I woke up I still felt bad and kept retching but no temperature so I wouldn’t bother going to the doctors now. Garry made me a cup of tea and then boiled egg and slowly during the morning I started to feel better. Jaque bought a tiny deer for dinner and Garry watched them prepare it. They eat everything!

In the afternoon I got up and washed - that was great because the sea air makes you feel grot.

The sea was really rough and the tiny dug out canoes couldn’t get out in it, so Jaque didn’t have any food to feed his five thousand, so we gave him the other half of the Barracuda .

We made ourselves some potato and leek soup with boiled potatoes in it. Then walked up the beach to see the Germans. Christian was in town and Sylvia was just going fishing with Robert, so we chatted with Achim, who told us of his dramatic escape from Romania to Yugoslavia and with his freedom, he is trying to travel around the world. He had made an attempt to escape in the mountains in Bulgarian, but it was too snowy and too many police!

We watched Sylvia and Robert trying to come to shore but a huge wave turned the boat over and tangled the net, so Garry and Achim jumped in and helped get the boat in. They risked their lives for a catch of 3 tiny fish, so would have to eat dried fish tonight. We came back to find Jaque had made a big fire and we sat and chatted round it.

I got up at 6.30 and went for a beautiful walk along the beach and then over the other side of the lane into the forest. It was so fresh at this time and the birds were lively. When I got back Garry was still asleep so I talked for a while to Jaque until 9.30 when Garry got up. After breakfast Jaque’s mother had offered to do our washing so we gave it to Jaque then drove down to the Germans to see if they wanted anything in town. When we got to Kribi though the shops were closed because today was a festival so we bought onions, tomatoes, plantains, eggs, nuts and rice from the market, and then bought some beers and cokes and stopped off on the way back for a drink in a tiny wooden bar. A boy there offered to take us up the river to see the pygmy village but his price was high - so we’ll have to see if we can get him down. Took the shopping back to the Germans and they made up tea and a Christian special - we stayed a few hours and when we got back to Jaque’s, Cyril had cleaned the whole area of weeds and swept the beach, and there was a big stack of fire wood for us to use. But then it poured down so we made dinner in the rain, fried egg, baked beans and sauté potatoes. Then retreated inside - I did some french while Garry read then we played cards. When we went to bed Garry read David Copperfield until 1.30!

Got up at 7.30 to drizzly rain and I cooked some delicious porridge for breakfast. Did some chores but then the heavens opened and again we were stuck inside Rover. I did some sewing while Garry got into his book.

The rain eventually gave up at about 12 so we took a wonderful stroll along the track watching the birds and enjoying the dry spell. The smell of the damp forest, noises of the birds and monkeys. Along the way we met Jaque walking in the other direction, who turned round and joined us, proudly pointing out areas where they trap, farm and what trees they fell for their canoes. Suddenly, he stopped us and pointed out a group of monkeys playing in a distant tree. We walked along the muddy path to Santa Marie Plage, stopped for a chat to the Germans and Robert then walked back along the beach, by now in the drizzling rain.

Back inside Landy I wrote a letter long overdue to Ian then I cooked some pancakes and shared them with Jaque. I made a huge batter mix so later on - in the rain - I cooked savoury pancakes with chunky curried chicken inside and rice. Later in the evening, with the aid of plenty of diesel we managed to get a roaring fire going and had a pleasant evening with Jaque and 2 younger boys.

Breakfasted again on porridge and then packed away. Jaques little 2 year old nephew had come down with Malaria so we gave him the Chloroquin syrup we had bought and left Jaque with it for further treatment. I took some photos of them all and the beach, although again it was a drab day and didn’t show it at its best. Walked along the beach to say goodbye to the Germans and were on our way to Kribi by 10.30, where we bought some bread. By this time it was really raining hard and in no time at all the Land Rover was red from mud. A lorry managed to aim a handful of it through only 2 inches of open window and got me head on - Splat!

We munched a whole load of bread for lunch while drinking and once out of Edea and on tarmac we stopped for a drink in an open air bar that was competing with another bar for the loudest music! Arrived in Yaounde at about 4 and headed for the water tanks we could see in the distance. Yaounde is an huge sprawling capital city built on hilly ground - as if by a sign from God we soon found the Prespetarian Mission, that the Germans told us about and camped outside the foyer there, they charge 1000CFA per person to camp and the whole complex shows how much money the church brings in from its supporters. Cooked soup and potatoes and had an early night.

Our first stop his morning was to find a bank. After 2 unsuccessful attempts, we had to wait ½ an hour at the BIAO for them to get some cash! So 2 hours later we had changed traveller’s cheques and started looking for the CAR Embassy. We go there at 11.30, expecting to be told to come back after lunch but they told us to wait in a separate waiting room and 2 hours, 2 photos and 10,000CFA lighter we walked out with our visas. They were very friendly there and we had allowed 2 days to get them! We bought some sweet croissants for lunch then stopped in a modern café for a drink. Here we succumbed to buying an expensive sandwich each. Went from there to the supermarket for our last stock up before CAR and Zaire. It was ½ an hour late in opening as the queer french manager made them wash the floors! Outside a policeman stopped us for going through a red light but after Garry sweet talked him, we got let off for nothing. A friendly little girl followed us round chatting away so we let her be guardian for the car. Went to a pharmacy after and stocked up on some Fansidars - although I hope we wouldn’t have to use them again! Tried unsuccessfully to buy some canvas to make a canopy. Went back to the mission for a shower each and then treated ourselves with our flexible friend to a meal in a french restaurant. We were the only people there and had a lovely meal and good conversation - which is amazing considering we’re in each others company 24 hours a day. The patron bought us a liquor and brandy which rounded off a good evening. I felt quite uncomfortable all day but thought it was indigestion.

Oh what a hell of a night! I had a temperature of 39°C and an excruciating stomach pain on my right side. I only managed to doze off sitting up and at first light Garry went to find a doctor. He came back with Maria from the mission, who walked me down a mud track to the Doctor’s house - he was at the Mission Hospital so I struggled down to the dingy hospital. We had a terrible shock when the doctor staggered out, muttering something incomprehensible, fag hanging out of his mouth, 5ft nothing of him wearing a 6ft man’s clothes! I wanted to walk out but they said another was due for the day shift. He was a charming man, just back from Britain and immediately diagnosed Gall Stones! We politely refused my staying at his hospital and ½ hour later I was laying in a £50 a day private clinic. They immediately gave me an antibiotic injection, and then put me on a glucose drip. I was given a 3 course meal at 11 and told not to eat or drink anything else as I would have an Ultra Sound test at 6. What a depression when the pain and shock of the situation had sunk in. I fatally read the closing chapter of  “Out of Africa” and cried my eyes out as she described her sadness of leaving Africa - it all seemed too close to home!

Can we continue our trip? Do I need an operation?

They gave me a pain killer injection in the bum and a hot water bottle while Garry went to change more money for the 100,000 CFA deposit! The doctor from the mission came to see me and then I was taken for the ultra sound test - it showed an inflamed bladder with 2 stones - bad news! The doctor came over again in the evening and they gave me antibiotic injections every 8 hours and they changed my drip to Saline. Garry was allowed to stay with me on a sofa bed which was great.

I felt more comfortable today and at 8 I had another ultra sound test - this time the stones didn’t show but the whole screen was only 2 ½ inches square with my gall bladder about 1cm big, so how they could decipher anything was a miracle. The doctor is sure I have stones but has reassured us that we can continue our travels as long as the inflammation goes down first. This will mean staying in Yaounde at least a week and total rest. Garry stayed for lunch and we had egg and tomato starter, then I had a slice of pork, Garry had rabbit, covered in hair! Followed by 3 flavoured ice-creams! I’ve got to eat fat-free foods from now on. The doctor gave instructions to go our and buy a different antibiotic injection and when they came back with it, gave it to me in my bottom again. I feel like a pin cushion at the moment as they’ve moved my drip for the fourth time and now it’s in my right hand. Garry range the insurance company in Southend and they put our mind at rest about claiming for this extortionate bill.

We played cards for a while before dinner. We can’t afford Garry eating here as well so when mine was served he went to town to get a meal. He came back 2 hours later with a copy of last Sunday’s Times. Nothing seems to have changed at home - it seems like such a long time we’ve been away that there should be a dramatic different. I went to sleep early and could lay down now quite comfortably.

My drop finished in the night and they removed it, thankfully. After breakfast and another injection in my arm we waited for the doctor to arrive. He finally came at about 11.30 and told me I could go. He gave me a prescription for pill antibiotics and pain killers, and made it a repeat order so we could take a supply with us just in case. They gave me a cup of coffee and piece of fruit cake. Then I leisurely showered in hot water - what an exquisite treat. The only problem was that it exhausted me and made my gall stones gall! So I flopped on the bed while Garry asked them to settle our bill. It amounted to CFA 317,000 (£634) for 3 days! We didn’t have that sort of money in CFA so they kept my passport until Monday. We asked for coffee while we were packing and they told us it would cost 1000 CFA! We are just not used to this capitalist approach of the medical profession!

We left the hospital and arrived at the mission at about 4, where everybody knew my story and asked after me. The doctor came by to see how I was - he seems such a considerate man. Garry made me potatoes and soup and made sure I didn’t lift a finger. 3 Cambridge university boys came over to introduce themselves - Hugh, Crispin and Richard! Then later on a German on a motorbike - very travel worn. Went to bed early while Garry chatted to the boys.