It was absolutely scorching hot at 7 and we fought for the shade of Landy for breakfast.

Drove through much the same scenery of scrub as in the park then saw a few villages and stopped at a tiny shack for a cold drink. Lovely friendly people - they gave us some cashews and showed us them growing. We bought a litre of coconut wine from them for 5sh (including ants).

We’ve made it coast to coast!! What a perfect place to celebrate - Malinidi is a lovely Swahili town with the white mosques blending in with mud huts, palm trees and whiter than white sands. The Indian ocean has surpassed my greatest expectations and is the turquoise crystal clear of dreams.

We immediately searched out a café overlooking the fishing dhawes and had beautiful kingfish and chips. Garry bought a huge woven mat!

Drove a kilometre further south to silver sands campsite. Its clean and on a grass bank on the beach. At only 30sh each the perfect spot for sun worshipping for a few days. Before doing anything else we all went for a swim and Joe had a go at windsurfing. Then what a brilliant surprise - we met Achim and chatted away the rest of the day catching up on news. His girlfriend ditched him but he’s not wasted much time and is with a lovely New Zealand girl who joined us for our bottle of coconut palm in the evening (revolting but very intoxicating). Lovely day!

Garry got up at 6 cos of the heat but I suffered till 7 and found everyone at the café having toast and coffee. Achim and Isabeth are off to Lamu today but we sat talking till the last minute and then took them to town to get the coach. It was an hour late so we sat in a real Muslim café bustling with life and quenched our thirst on iced orange juice and bargees and coconut sauce.

After a cool off swim, Chris and us followed the Safari coach down to the Marine National park and went out in a glass-bottomed boat. We went out about a kilometre and armed with masks and snorkels jumped over the side of this huge aquarium. I was so taken aback with the sight under there that the fact I kept half drowning myself was totally insignificant. Just the beautifully formed and coloured corals were fantastic, but there was also the most vividly marked and coloured fish all around. After an hour we moved to another spot and this time they threw bread out so we were swimming in shoals of fish, every colour of the rainbow. Garry and Chris saw an Octopus, Ray and I saw a huge yellow eel and small swordfish shaped fish.

Joe and Chris took us out to the Driftwood club for dinner. We had a delicious 4 course meal for 100sh each and we bought 2 bottles of Kenyan wine. Sat on the beach afterwards till very late and had such a laugh that the memory is bottled for a long time to come.

I didn’t get up until 7.30 at which time Joe and Chris had already packed their tent away. Went to breakfast with them and spent a few hours with them, before they wobbled out weighed down with their packs to find a hitch to Mombasa. I’ve enjoyed their company the past few days.

I did some essential washing and managed to mend Garry’s’ shorts zip. Garry fixed the light in the back of Landy. Basically though we didn’t move far from the vertical position. Each with a good book had a lovely relaxing day. Had a swim then went to town for some food and stopped off for a pot of tea on the way back.

I showered in the salty water, then cooked pasta with peas and bacon in a white sauce (not as nice as it sounds). Fell asleep reading at 8 after such a busy day!

Garry chatted to Rasta Man, next to us in a little hut and went to bed early at 9.30.

Woke up as the sun was rising to hear violent rain, so had an enforced but none the less pleasant lie-in and got up at 8. The whole place smelt fresh and green as we walked to the café. Had our coffee and toast and then I walked along the beach while Garry washed up. Found some pretty coloured shells coral and a big piece of sponge but after showing Garry I put them back where they came from. This part of the beach is included in the Marie park and even shells are protected.

We went into town and I started pricing up African print fabric until I found a shop selling it already made up into bikinis, which is what I wanted it for. The strap wasn’t long enough so they made a new one for me, while I waited and it was only £2.75. Bought a giant pineapple from a mountain of others and more veg in the market. Walked round the curio stalls but the government had had them pulled down so their goods were just in piles. I took pity on one stall holder and bought a lovely sandstone surreal mother and child statue for £2.50.

Back at the campsite we went swimming and then talked to a nice English guy who’s come overland from Swaziland. Then Garry cooked burgers, beans and spuds and made a special cuppa, care of Rasta Man, who also taped Joshua tree for us - third time lucky!

Garry was up at 5.30 recording a glorious sunrise over the Indian Ocean. I had a glimpse and good intentions but didn’t get up!

After coffee and toast at the café, the tide was right out and I went for a swim then walked around the coral pools, watching the hermit crabs in different shapes and sizes. There were quite a few brightly coloured little fish too, even an angel fish daring around in the warm pools. I went for another swim before we went to town. Garry took his jeans and shorts into the little tailor to have new zips put in. We bought a huge sack of charcoal but didn’t realise just how big it was until it was inside Landy! As soon as we got back we hoisted it on the roof to get rid of the sight of it.

I did a load of washing then we read for a while in the shade. Got chatting to 2 New Zealand girls and invited them for tea.

Garry got a good fire going and we had eggs, bacon, tomato and toast.

After showering we walked along the beach to the Driftwood club for a drink and as a treat had a gin and orange. We think Mark Knofphler is staying in a hut along the beach with his dog and black girlfriend but didn’t want to ask him, so we’ll never know!

Cooked out of bed at 7, and the arsonist set about getting the fire going which took hours. Then when it was hot enough for toast we discovered that all the bread was mouldy - so it was coffee and biscuits for breakfast.

Garry went into town to collect his jeans and shorts, while I got down to some serious letter writing. More washing and more swimming - oh what a life! If this is what heaven’s like then I believe, I believe!

Went in for the last swim of the day and met an unsociable jelly fish - a turquoise blue Man O War, luckily just one finger got stung but it gave me jip for a while.

Played Yams after sausage sandwiches for dinner. Omah had a party on the beach in the evening. Oh boy, do they know the meaning of enjoying themselves - they really go for it! Sat on the beach for ages star gazing. They are so crystal clear and bright that you can see the reflection of the stars on the beach.

We packed up just in time as it was starting to rain. Bought some diesel before leaving this lovely town.

We wanted to look around Godi ruins - an ancient Arab village - but they were asking 50sh entry so we drove away.

To get on to Mombasa Island, you have to get a ferry, which was free and worked very efficiently. Got to the Amex office at 11.30 but there were 2 tourists reporting stolen travellers cheques so it took the girl nearly an hour to deal with them. After collecting our travellers cheques, she checked our mail and there wasn’t any for us! Nobody loves us.

Parked the Landy outside Fort Jesus and walked along the narrow streets with their arab air of sleepiness yet activity. Tried to find a café for some lunch but were told the only one is inside the fort. Had lunch and then walked around this Portuguese fort with its chequered history. There was an interesting museum there too. Got another ferry out of Mombasa going south which cost 13sh and after 20klms turned down the dreaded Tiuri road that we had been warned about. Turuga lodge is a lovely wooded camp sloping down to the beach. We met Dave again and cooked green beans and garlic with omelettes.

Didn’t wake up until 8 as it was cool still from the heavy rain during the night. We went to the bar for coffee and toast then moved the van to a free spot with shade and right on the beach - beautiful really.

The tide was out and I went exploring the rock pools teaming with coloured marine life. Got talking to Jack, an old hand traveller, who gave us the bad news that we’ll have problems selling even south. Bloody overland, have really stitched us up!

The fishermen were spearing fish from the reef on low tide and we haggled with them to get 2 huge mullet for 35sh (£1). We sold one to a nice Yorkshire couple who have just arrived.

Went swimming in the literal hot bath sea. When we got out I noticed some fishermen taking out a big net by hand, the next minute they were excitedly pulled out about ½ ton of sardines. Garry helped them and it took an hour just to empty the net. We got a few and charcoaled them just to try. In the evening Pat and Jimmy joined us and we cooked our huge fishes. They were really tasty. Had a good evening, rounded off by sitting on the beach discussing the history of the world!

The sun reared its pretty little face and said “Get up lazy heads, there’s a beautiful world waiting for you out here”. So we did early. Had papaya and grapefruit for breakfast.

Sat in the shade chatting to Pat, Jimmy and Dave. Then we went for a long walk to the coral reef - as the tide was right out. Fascinating watching the different fish and millions of sea urchins change as you get further out. Got friendly with a school boy who told me where to find a diving pool in the coral.

There was a lovely old fisherman who I bought a nice kingfish from for 30p but Pat and Jim wanted one as well so we gave ours back and went ½s on a huge Red Snapper cartoon character.

As the tide came in we dived in eagerly but found it was so hot, no exaggeration the temperature was about 30°C until high tide when it cooled off. I found a puffer fish washed up so we did a rescue service for him and swam right out to cold water. Garry borrowed Jim’s snorkel and went out to the reef. Went for a drink in the bar before the fish cooking ceremony. It was mouth watering especially served with potato curry and hunks of bread. Had a real laugh again comparing travel stores and didn’t got to bed till 12ish.

Got up at 7.30 and again had mouldy bread, so we went to the bar for coffee and toast, everyone else seemed to be asleep still - I don’t know how they can in this heat, I did some washing and discovered I had tie-dyed my tee-shirt unintentionally.

At about 12 we walked to the sea which was right out, with Pat and Jimmy. Stopped occasionally at rock pools, it took us ages to follow the sea along for about 1 kilometre to a rocky headland; that had caves eroded into the rock. These cool spots were homes for thousands of crabs and more prehistoric creatures. Intent on watching the miniature life below me, I walked straight into a rock, Ouch! The next minute Garry stepped on a sea arenorie and it pierced through is flip-flop and into his foot. After this we all slowed down and were gingerly inspecting where we put our feet as they were everywhere. Just the other side of where the rocks jutted out was a rock pool about 20ft in diameter and 10 feet deep.

We had borrowed a mask and snorkel and dived in - to see the hundreds of tiny fish living here. The tiny tiger stripes swim right up to the mask! Enjoyed it so much we didn’t notice how much the tide came in, so we quickly climbed up the cliff and back to the campsite. We met the old fisherman waiting for us and he said he caught a big one just for us, so convincing and sad was his face that we succumbed and bought another Red Snapper. For a change though we cut it into piece and cooked it with rice, onions and tomatoes and it was revolting - full of scales! So samosas from the bar was dinner.

Woke up to the sound of rain but there was no wind, so it was really humid. Got up and got wet! We escaped to the bar for coffee and decided to go back to Mombasa to see if we had any mail. As we left a Frenchman asked us for a lift. He turned out to be a rare breed - a nice well travelled froggie.

Got to town at 11.30 and I went and changed up £50 travellers cheques, then I found a souvenir shop selling nice silk print cards for Lisa and Lindsays birthdays - we wrote them out then and there and Garry posted them. Time running out before lunchtime we split up - I went to Amex, no mail there, and then to the main post office, no mail either. Meanwhile Garry went to the supermarket to stock up. Afterwards we went to a lovely café, cosy tea shop - an old fashioned place full of life for their famous meat pie and samosa. As we walked back to the car we met the Frenchman again and gave him a lift back. Garry saw the German brain surgeon in town - wonders will never cease - they made it!

Back in the sun with the aid of witch-hazel, Q-tips, orange pencil and bic, I forged our insurance - Ooh, naughty, naughty. The guy who lent us the mask and snorkel said we could buy it for £6 so in I went with our new toy and saw some lovely fish just 20ft out from shore. Garry cooked a nice Spaghetti Bolognaise (spoke too soon) it was full of minced bone! Went over to the bar with Pat and Jimmy and the rest of the campsite were there. Were the last to leave at 11.30 as got chatting to a Kiwi, who’s just sold his Landy in Arusha - and got arrested in the process. Supposed to be someone coming down at the weekend to see ours.

Woke to the sound of pouring rain so I turned over and went back to sleep. Garry had to go to the loo, so after went to bar for coffee. I didn’t get up until 9.30 - it was bliss. I ate 5 weetabix, what a pig! Ambled about, getting ready. At 12, Pat and Jim came with us to see how the other half live at Diani but on the way the heavens opened. Just walking from the car to Nomads bar we got soaked to the skin. Got stung for coffees at £1 each. Stayed for a few hours until the smell of delicious expensive food drove us away. Investigated Dan Trench’s the other campsite but it was a dive.

Stopped at an African bar for lunch and had Chapatti, huge bowl of beans and 2 cubes of tough but tasty beef for 10shs each person. Had to leave promptly though, when one tanked up man started saying “why have they got money and we haven’t?”

Got back in time for a swim at high tide and few hours sun worshipping.

We were invited to a barbecue of goat on the beach but it kept spitting with rain and there was no wind, so we were invaded with mosquitoes and thought better of it. Had a game of cards inside instead. Went to bed to read at 9.30.

It was raining again when we woke up so we didn’t get up till 9 (12 hours).

I had my daily weetabix and tea. Then I did some washing, Finished, I joined Garry laying in 2ft of sea as the tide was out. It was lovely warm water but felt twice as hot when it started raining. Wet anyway we stayed there. It soon cleared up and the sky was powder blue again.

Went for a drink in the bar with Pat and Jimmy before Sunday Roast! For lunch we had a Samosa each and shared a plate of chips.

Sat reading on the beach until the tide came in, and then walked up to Tim’s house further along the beach. He’s let us borrow his windsurfers and first we chose the small one but thinking it was a faulty board we changed it for the larger one. Could stand on this one but not much else and said kept popping out so we changed again for fear of breaking it. We were in the water more than on the board. A man walking along the beach showed us how it was done. It looked so easy and I did manage a record 2 yards. After an hour or so we gave up as a bad job. We did have a good laugh though. Garry cooked bacon and eggs for tea, and then we went for a drink with Pat and Jimmy.

Up early as it was so hot. A swim before breakfast is so refreshing - I thoroughly enjoyed it. After coffee and weetabix we chatted to Jack for a while then I lazed about in the warm shallow water - a wonderful place for contemplation and reflecting on how lucky we are to be here.

At lunchtime Garry and I went and sat in the bar out of the heat of the midday sun and played cards. Back in the sea, I sat for hours engrossed in “Lord of the Rings”, for too long in fact, because I got quite sunburnt. My nose is like crispy duck.

The boys working in the bar asked if they could borrow our darts, so Garry and Pat ended up playing with them for hours. We bought 3 small mullet from our favourite little fisherman. I cleaned the front of the car out in anticipation of Jack’s car buyer friend arriving tomorrow.

Garry got a roaring fire going and we cooked delicious jacket potatoes, charcoaled fish and a chilli tomato and onion salad. A feast fit for a king. Jimmy smoked too much though, I didn’t eat a thing or say much all night.

We got up at 8 and after breakfast packed away to go to Mombasa. Piled Jim and Pat’s rucksacks in the back and dropped them off in town at 11am.

We then drove along the narrow winding road to the tiny Jomo Kenyafta airport. There was only one bank and one international flight to Milan. So I was less than happy about changing travellers cheques to £s and saying I was leaving on that flight. I walked, though I was only allowed £50. As we walked back to the car, 3 policemen followed us and my heart was in my mouth, it turned out that they just wanted a chat and were interested in the trip!

From there we drove back to town and in the BBCI I managed to charge £500 travellers cheques to my Access card. That should see us through to the end of our travels - famous last words.

Had a fantastic Thali for lunch. For 30ksh we had a huge platter each with 4 different vegetable curries, 3 chapattis, rice and salad with lots of tasty relishes.

When we got back we went snorkelling and both saw a big puffer fish, then I saw a great fish with frilly fingers for fins. Had a quiet evening writing and reading and had some beans on toast.

We got up and went to the bar for breakfast to use up our change on eggs on toast.

I went for a last swim to cool off after packing the car away while Garry did his promised chore of cleaning the fridge.

On the way out of the lodge we went to buy some cigarettes and Garry reversed into an immaculate white Honda Civic. The driver didn’t know how much the plastic light cover would cost, so we drove with him to Ukonda to where he thought a spares shop was - its now a supermarket, so I tried phoning a Nairobi Honda dealer with no luck, so we paid him £6 and left after 2 hours hassle.

We made sure every paper was in order before going through the Lunga Lunga border but shouldn’t have worried cos it was an easy friendly border and we were finished both sides in ½ hour. Back in Tanzania I was immediately struck by the poverty here compared with its rich neighbour. We drove straight to Tanga on a good dirt road. I liked the town a lot and we stopped for a samosa and soda in a café crossed with an electricians shop. Drove out of town for 10K to the Baobab Hotel, stopped on the way to give the cook a lift. Strange place, to camp they asked for $3 each, but for a room and breakfast it was 600shs (£2)! Obviously we took a room and being the only guests had a nice quiet meal of prawns and chips.

Garry woke me up in the middle of the night, mossie killing. The log roof was swarming with them.

Up at 7.30 we quickly had a bucket wash as there was no water, then went for breakfast of fried eggs and bread with good coffee.

For months we had heard about the dreaded Tanga/Dar road and now we were on it - it didn’t seem as bad as we imagined. There were parts with good tarmac but most was badly pot-holed.

We drove solidly all day and didn’t even see a desert bar to stop for a drink. We did have a fridge full of sodas though. It was the first day that was cloudy and what a dramatic sky we drove through. As we neared Dar it poured down. Saw a strange sight of a Masai moran all done up including spears, wearing one pink and one orange jelly shoes and riding a bike.

In Dar we went straight to the post office but we were 10 minutes late. We had been driving for 8½ hours and Garry was shattered. Stopped for a quick pizza and then had a drive for another ½ hour to the Silversands hotel to camp. There was no other campers at this run down university hotel, but we drove onto the beach with a sea breeze. The beach here is eroding badly and they have to use rock barriers. Funny manager told us Wazuna’s to go to the next hotel and be sociable with whites. Went to see if Achim was there but came back when found out he wasn’t.

Got baked out of bed at 7 and went for breakfast in the restaurant. Waiter was a miserable bugger and told Garry to wait when we asked for coffee.

Left for town almost straight away, our first stop being the post office, where we received a note and map from Sylvi and Chris, as well as a letter from Dad. Its so nice to receive post - shame we keep missing it! I went to the national bank and they eventually told me I would have to go to town to make a photocopy of my traveller’s cheque! The next bank was far more efficient and soon we were on our way to Sylvi and Chris. We found them amongst the building sites but right on the beach. We soon learnt their terrible news that they had been attacked. 5 boys came at night, one stabbed Christian in the bank and one hacked Sylvi on the head with a panga. I think it wouldn’t have been as bad if Sylvia hadn’t let off a flare on one of their faces. They’re not having much luck selling the van and all in all are quite disillusioned with Tans, understandably.

They left us in the afternoon as they placed an ad in the local rag but returned despondent after a few hours as no-one turned up. There’s a nice watchman here and dogs but every night they arm themselves and we all felt very nervous.

Had a lazy day catching up with everyone’s news. Intermittently going for a swim to cool off. The sea here though has more seaweed but considering its a capital city is very clean. Sylvi and Chris, as usual, have been doing lots of things - a solar shower, barbecue, toilet cubicle and renovating an old fishing boat. Achim, hesitantly helped them with it. I did some washing while Chris and Garry went to town to sell the truck again. Sylvi and Chris have made some great Indian friends and Raj came over lunchtime with some fresh sausages that we charcoaled with bread.

Chris and Garry came back with only one interested Greek who showed up. They did buy a huge horned pike and we had a feast on it with jacket potatoes and salad. Every night there seems to be some panic with supposedly intruders. Its a shame that their experience has left them paranoid but for me, I would have moved somewhere else long ago. We are trying to leave as soon as possible for this reason.

While Garry was out I made him an Anniversary card and he surprised me by presenting me with one, when we went to bed as it was after 12.

6 years of marriage, and what a place to celebrate it. I now know we can match that happily.

We borrowed Brian’s small inflatable boat and 5 crazy wazunga’s piled into it and headed off to the island closest to us about 3klms away. The sun was so intense that the minute we arrived on the sand we all dived into the crystal clear water. Paradise found, this tiny island is forest except for one sandy beach and totally uninhabited. Garry gave me a huge white clam shell and I found beautiful shells all over but chose to leave them where they belong.

We all snorkelled and I stayed in the water most of the time as it is so hot. We got back to the vans at about 3 and Raj, Ioob and their friend were waiting for us. After showering we went to the Conduchi Hotel for dinner. We had a four course meal for £1 each, then walked along the beach to a flashing hotel packed with Tanzanians dressed in their best. It had a really friendly atmosphere and soon we were boogying on down. Raj knew the lead singer of the band and told him it was our anniversary, so he dedicated a great calso (calypso/soul) tune to us. We got chatting to so many different people and were introduced to the local brew Konyagi.

Took Achim with us to town and he applied for his Zambia visa while I had a great surprise at receiving a lovely letter from Lisa. She’s got the bug too!

Had a general wander around the town and we found where to buy the Niastcine pipes. Sat, watching the world go by, in the Salamander Bar and waited for Sylvi and Christian. While we were away Selimen did a massive pile of washing for us.

After dinner with Amari we showed everyone our photographs and Sylvi went crazy over our chimp snaps. They have a cat now called Ninja who is filling the gap.

As soon as I woke up I went for a swim to cool off. It seems even hotter here than Kenya - must be 30-35°C.

We all went to town and then went separate ways. We bought our boat tickets and learnt that the new speedboat is still not running so it will be a dhow overnight!

Went for a lovely ice cream in a cute Walt Disney shop the to a typical Joe’s café for tea. Met the others for lunch. Christian changed some money for us with Brian. Back along the terribly corrugated sandy piste. When we got back we went swimming before packing for our adventure.

Gave Christian the run down on how to lock up Landy then went for Kebalos at the family centre before they dropped us off in town. Went to phone home but lines were down, so walked to dock. We asked about 20 people what time it would be but everyone told us different times - between official 12pm to 8am. Walked back to town to find a bar, but there was only a very dodgy disco open, so settled for ginger tea at the dock. It was too hot for us all so sat on the pavement with the other 200 people waiting patiently. I managed to fall asleep and at 4 things started moving so we joined the crowd. An incredibly small dhow arrived, seats were just a few sacks on the floor and the whole boat was open to the elements. We scrambled on and frantically tried to reserve a space before Mamma and luggage found their way on.

It was an incredibly long and uncomfortable night. Garry had a gap just big enough to lay in but had 6 men standing over him! The one perk was watching an incredible sunrise over the many tiny islands, but Garry was too low down to see it!

At 12.30 we arrived in Zanzibar and by this time we were ready to drop! We had to wait a while to have our luggage checked and passports stamped. Achim took us to Sinbad’s bar and we ate and drank our fill like starved animals. Achim knew loads of people and met his German friend that he met last time. We were soon sucked into the friendly atmosphere and had been invited to a party that night. Dean took us for a walk around the old town with narrow streets and ornately carved doorways. I was struck by the harmony and tranquillity of the place where all nationalities are living side by side and not in separate quarters.

We stayed in Malindi Guest House and shared a room with one other traveller while Achim slept on the roof. We showered which felt great then walked along the wonderland of little stalls selling squid and meet, nuts and chapattis, fruit salad and ice-cream and biscuits. Each stall had a few candles and even some small girls had stalls on the ground and were signing together.

We meet Pee and Dean then went to the others hotel and taught or tried hard to teach them how to play poker, and drinking much Konyagi, Balantines and much smoking. Then onto Franco’s house at 11 when we were legless and spent our time laughing and trying to communicate with his wife who only spoke Swahili, Walked home and had to wake up the caretaker.

Had a good breakfast and got chatting to 2 Brits and we talked them into coming on the spice tour with us. We walked along the harbour and changed some dollars in the bank. Met Metus and he took us by taxi all around the island to the turkish bath ruins built for the sultan of Oman’s 99 wives and the other extreme, the slave caves. What a dismal place that was. But the gem was to have pointed out so many different fruits and spices. We counted up to 40 and lost count. There were, lodine, pink guava, apple, cloves, jack fruit (huge knobbly tasty things), golden mangos, quinine, berries for soap and fruit for shampoo. Cinnamon, lemon grass, nutmeg, star fruit, cocoa, lerua and a fruit for lipstick. All day long he filled us with fruits and then took us to a tiny mud hut café for spiced tea and sesame biscuits then coffee and honey cakes. To finish off a perfect day we went to a deserted beach and swam in the cool clear water.

Met Achim in Sinbad’s with Pee and Dean and after showering walked around the town. Eating from the tiny stalls. Had a fairly early night but an unforgettable one never the less.

We had a dash trying to fit in the last minute requests. Dean took Garry around town taking photos and I walked again to the bank and although they weren’t supposed to, they allowed me to change more dollars. I then went with Pee to buy some Clove Oil for Sylvi.

Sadly we had to make our way to the docks and Pee and Dean saw us off. We were very lucky and only had to wait 2 hours for the boat. This time it was a covered ferry but still just as crowded. It was much better as I got talking to a nice Zanzibar boy and the time went quicker. This boat had a bigger engine and it only took 4 hours. The sea was rough though and people were sea-sick all around, especially around Achim.

We met Sylvi and Chris and were relieved to hear they had no problems with the van. Had a quiet evening and Sylvi cooked us fish and vegetable salad.

In the morning we went to the beautiful fruit market, then to see the Makonde carvers. They had some nice work and we swapped a £1 watch and 400S (£1) for a lovely Tree of Life.

Raj, Ioob and Seb arrived with 2 chickens and we packed up the finished fishing boat to go to the next Island. Trouble was the boat leaked everywhere and the only way we managed it was for 2 of us to bail out frantically with 2 buckets! We made it after ¾ hour and was so surprised to be greeted by a barman who offered to cook dinner for us! There were picnic tables there and toilets but no-one else. Swam, snorkelled and drank in bliss.

Had a great meal of chicken, potatoes, salad and bread, then started on the Konyagi. For the first time in my life I slept out in the open on the beach. Not quite as romantic as I had imagined with sand and mosquitoes to content with.

Stayed on the Island most of the morning, but the sun got too much for us at lunchtime so we headed back.

When we arrived back on the beach the tide was right out and we had to walk forever with cool boxes and the rest of the paraphernalia. Well worth it, for our desert island experience.

When the tide came in we had the task of walking out again to the bed, then pulling it in and carrying the engine back to the hut. Got some nice pork spare ribs for dinner.

Everyone except Sylvi went to town and to the post office, but there was no post for us. Stocked up on food in a good supermarket. It teased us with all sorts of goodies imported from Europe that were well above our price range.

Went to see Ioob’s new house and there was a crowd of them playing chess. The Indians seem to have a good life here. He’s such a nice guy and gave me some jasmine flowers as a sign of friendship. We stayed there all afternoon. Achim at last had some chess partners worthy of his standards.

Garry, Chris and I went to buy some fish at the auction. A fascinating meeting place with bartering going on all around. They hauled in a 6ft marlin and after it was sold we asked if we could buy a steak from it. The blood was nearly black and the skin like a shark.

Ate that and pork spare ribs with honey glaze. The fish was more like that of meet in taste and texture.

Leisurely got ready and again said goodbye to Sylvi and Christian. I hope they will be alright here.

Went to the post office, no mail again and I changed a £20 travellers cheque. Filled up with petrol, then set off for Malawi, at last!

Stopped at a typical African traditional town and the first restaurant only served drinks, the Zimbabwe restaurant did the usual Ugali rice and meat or vegetable sauce. Paying no attention to the dirt and flies we enjoyed our meat and rice and coke x 3 for less than £1 total.

At about 2.30 we entered the Mikumi game reserve on the main road and didn’t expect to see many animals. Immediately, though we saw loads of giraffe, a few antelopes and then about a dozen elephants. As soon as we left the park gates we pulled off the road and set up camp. We scared off some gazelle and didn’t see any more animals.

Cooked jacket potatoes to a cinder and fried eggs.

Had a nice papaya and bread and honey for breakfast. By 8.30 we were on our way.

Drove non-stop all morning, until we reached Urunga, where we wanted to buy some straw bags but couldn’t find any. They’re supposed to be made here too!

Found a nice hotel for lunch - The Railway, very old fashioned with 3 course lunch for £1. I did have to send my pork chop back though as it was so off it stank.

Full up, we searched for a bakery, easier said than done.

The scenery became greener as we drove higher. At 5pm we started looking for a place to camp but there were houses scattered everywhere and by 5.45 were getting very tired. Eventually Garry spotted a place to cross over the railway. With much manoeuvring, camped next to an abandoned mud hut for shelter from the wind. Along the road we bought a giant mushroom, size of a frying pan and weighing a kilo. Achim prepared and cooked it with butter. It was nice and tasted more like meat than mushroom. The wind was so strong we felt really cold for the first time in months. Went to bed at 8.15, just to get out of the wind.