I felt sick, headachy and bruised when I got up, so the first thing I did was take some paracetamols. They promptly made me sick and I felt even worse then.

Played Yams until lunch then ½ way through lunch I was sick again, so I went to bed for the rest of the afternoon. Garry went out with Robert for a game of squash, while they were out we cooked Spaghetti Bolognaise and Cheesecake. A strange thing to do after being ill - don’t you think?

Had a relaxing morning playing cards with Sylv.

After lunch and a game of Yams we had a lovely surprise, Ken and Sylv were supposed to be going in a small plate with Rik over the Game Reserve of Dabou. Ken kindly let us go instead of him.

Rik’s been flying for about 3 years and he took us up in a hired Cessna - which is a tiny 4 seater, which is a strange experience. You feel so vulnerable up there and although we were going at about 90 knots - 110mph it feels like you’re hardly moving. It was amazing to see the legerans, sea and miles and miles of palm trees. It was also nice to see so much natural forest. Driving along the roads it seems there is no forest left. The minute Rik said we were over the Reserve we spotted elephants. We must have seen at least 10 - some huge perfectly majestic bulls - even a white one. We also saw water-buffalo and hippos! We were very lucky to see so many because it was cool enough for them to be out in the open. It was a really exciting experience and it all happened a bit too fast to take it all in.

Had a drink with Rik then just had time to shower and get ready and we went out for dinner with Francis Grimold and his Ivorianne wife, Aphuray. He’s a Frenchman, really nice and done lots in his life including crossing the desert and sailing from France to Africa! Went to a lovely fish restaurant and it was a great evening. Aphuray, although she couldn’t speak English, is a little bubbly thing who managed to communicate with sign language etc, her great sense of humour.

Stayed in with Ken and Sylv in the morning. After lunch we took the company Fiat, he called the Land Rover. On the way however, a policeman stopped us for supposedly hitting an invisible cyclist and insisted on fining us, this he found highly amusing and as we couldn’t make ourselves understood in French, he insisted on accompanying us to the office, where John paid him off. All this took so long that time had run out for us to go to the zoo, so as Ken’s business had finished we all went for an ice-cream.

Being Sylv’s last evening, she elected to play bowling. Robert joined us and we had a good game. After that we went for a Burger and Sylv and I had a lovely American breakfast. Robert went onto the nightclubs but us bones went home to crash out in front of the video.

Claire and Sylv went to the tailors to get some clothes altered and when they returned we went to the Nigerian Embassy to collect our visas. This necessitated giving the Madame on watch and paying twice the office visa rate but we got them eventually.

We went down to Grand Bassam in the afternoon to buy some last minute presents for Sylv. They bought a lovely fruit bowl of wooden hand carved fruits for Dad and Pam. Garry really enjoys the bartering and is quite good. There were all sorts of artefacts there, some dubiously voodoo looking sack cloth models for example.

Before taking Sylv to the airport we went back for a last ice-cream and Ken ordered this absolute monstrosity. Saw Sylvia safely on the plane - it seemed a shame to send such an innocent women through the customs alone.

Afterwards John and Claire went to a party but we stayed in and watched a video with Ken. That evening we found out that Rik had a minor heart attack.

Sunday saw a changed Ken. From the moment he awoke he decided it would be a boozy Sunday. We were supposed to go to the Golf course with John, but he was sick, so we went to the beach with Yan, Nigel, Otto, Robert and Ken. We had a meal on quite a nice beach complex and then started playing silly games, Word association games, coin on top of a glass on a serviette that you burn until the coin drops - each with a forfeit of a gin and tonic for me or a flag for the fellas. Understandably a lot of drink flowed and we were some of the last to leave, not before everyone was pushed into the swimming pool. I had to go home in my swimsuit and Rob’s denim jacket cos all my clothes were wet. Then we went to Nigel’s for bacon sandwiches, me still adorning swimsuit, most embarrassing! Had even more G&Ts and Garry was up most the night speaking down the great white telephone. I got quite worried about him as he couldn’t walk, talk or even stand!

Lisa rang and we had a good chat, it was nice to hear from her with all her travel plans.

We had a final game of Yams with Ken and John came home from work early to take Ken to the airport for Nigeria.

In the afternoon, outside the Hayat supermarket we had a very unexpected meeting - Des and Jackie - I really never though we would seem them again and they had been travelling all the time. They had been to Timbuctetou with a journalist and through Guines and Guinea Bassal. Their Land Rover had taken a real battering - lost the jerry holders in the jungle and broke a spring in the desert but I was surprised that they really had done very well. At first I was really pleased to see them but after a couple of hours and my romantic memory stopped playing tricks, it all came flooding back in technicolour how Lady Jackie behaved.

We went to Otto’s for dinner with Nigel, Yan and Robert and had a most civilised evening with beautiful food. For some reason although I didn’t have much to drink I had a kind of drunken fainting fit and was really embarrassed as everyone thought I was stoned out of my head!

Mum called and we had a good chat but she was a little subdued.

We got round to the bungalow early and after coffee and croissants started cleaning out the Rover. ½lb of marmalade and all. We tried to seal the cupboards with bin liners as best we could and generally game it a lick and polish. Unfortunately after Garry drank some of the water from the van I found that it was infested with little eggs! So we are going to have to flush it out and give it an overdose of steretabs. Des and Jackie have made it clear that they want to go their separate ways which has saved us the job of telling them that’s what we want.

Garry and I went to the Burger house for lunch and then when we were home Dad called - we must have been on the phone for ½ hour catching up on gossip. We went out for a crepe with John’s 3 little brothers and Robert as Sylvia was going to see Rik in Hospital. Had great fattening pancakes and enjoyed every morsel. Des and Jackie dropped beaucoup de hints for an invite but they weren’t successful. What mean bitches we are!

We got round the bungalow at 9 and Des Res and Lady Jackie were getting ready for the off. We waved them farewell once again and said we would contact them in Accra.

Rob came round and helped us pack. While we were doing our best to cram in our increased supplies it was drizzling with rain, which was a good way to cool down.

We went for a burger after as Yoseph hadn’t cooked us lunch.

That evening Clare had a cold so decided to go out for a drink. So Robert and us went to the Rinc Bar and had a game of darts. Afterwards we went to his French artist friends for a drink and his girlfriend and another couple were there sitting on scatter cushions. They seemed really nice and mellow and gave us mint tea from a soup mug. Then we had some distilled palm wine that tasted like pure alcohol. We got home at about 12 and we witnessed an incredibly close thunder storm that gave us a power cut. We stood in the garden and watched the lightening light up the sky and disturbed the bobble-hatted Robert from his sleep. Went to bed by candlelight.

John and Claire invited us to stay for lunch to say goodbye so as we were already packed didn’t bother getting up till 9.30.

We went to the bank for some more CFA then filled the water tanks up and managed to write 4 letters.

Had lovely roast beef lunch with John, Claire and Robert. Then Claire made a hot chocolate sauce for 3 different ice-creams with cream, nuts and hundreds & thousands. The last supper before corned beef and Ryvitas! It was quite sad to say goodbye as we have made some good friends.

We drove for about 3 hours and eventually camped about 30kms from the border. There was a noticeable change in friendliness as soon as we left town and the police just waved us through without asking for a cadeaux.

As we couldn’t find a decent enough hotel, camped down a lane just on the edge of the forest. It was fairly cool and we didn’t bother to cook. In contract to lunchtime we ate French toast and pate with weavels in the toast! Garry was really nervous all night but we didn’t see or hear a soul, except monkeys and birds.

I actually woke up in the night feeling chilly and by 6.30 we got up. We said we’d try and buy a cup of coffee so didn’t bother with breakfast. After washing and dressing we were on the road by 7.30. When we reached the Ivorian border post there were lots of Ghanaians there who chatted friendedly in English. We swapped names and addresses with 2 and one helped us change some small cedes. At the Ghana border it took about 2 hours to get cleared. Not because they were being difficult it was just the fact you have to see and so many people all with forms to fill in. They are so happy and friendly - just like children.

We stopped in a small town and Garry bought 5 soft loaves of bread for 100 cedes. We stopped further along the road to eat and were joined by 2 boys who thought we had a problem, after giving them our addresses and a piece of bread and pate, they ran up the road and climbed the nearest coconut tree and gave us 4 coconuts. They skilfully mashettied the outside off and cracked it open for us. They didn’t even want anything from us and said we could take their photo. In Takoradi we found a lovely hotel - like a dolls house and had a great dinner. I had fresh fried fish and chips and Garry chicken kiev.

What a lovely day - I do like Ghana.

Had breakfast in the hotel and share our table with a Ghanaian couple, he was a lecturer in Geology and she in Psychiatric nursing at Accra University. They were lovely gentle people and enjoyed their company.

We set off along the coast and stopped first to see what Takoradi beach was like. We were surprised to see that it was volcanic rock instead of the golden sands of Ivory Coast. After a few minutes 2 locals arrived and immediately started chatting to us, they gave us some cigs and a good time was had by all. A few minutes later 3 more vans arrived with 5 German ovedanders.  One van had “just married” on it, but they weren’t very friendly and left shortly. We drove through some lovely fishing villages and watched them set off in their canoe dug-outs.

Then we found the busy town of Elmuries, a badly run-down ruin of Portuguese occupants. It had a sandy beach lined with palm trees. We found more by accident a lovely hotel on the beach and had a drink, they agreed to let us sleep in the car park for a small, small price and so we spent the afternoon sitting on the beach and then chatted to some school children for a while before showering and having dinner.

Garry had goat and it had black skin - my chicken wasn’t too grand either! But the service was great. We have given our address out so many times that if they all write Alan will be suffocated with mail!

Was eating breakfast under the shade of a coconut palm by 7am and sleepily gazing at the sea.

We visited Elmina Castle, built by the Portuguese in 1450 to hold the slaves before shipment to America. Later they were overthrown by the Dutch, who in turn lost to the British and the slave trade continued until 1860. The Ghanaians rounded up the slaves themselves and sold them. It was eerie to see the squalid conditions they were kept in and to hear how they were humiliated. It was so recent, just a few generations ago but they have forgiven and forget their past and we are their friends. Outside we attracted a crowd of children begging and when we game them bread and lollies they acted like starving animals. What an unjust world we live in.

We set off for Koumasi but had to stop as the engine was surging. We think it was dirty diesel as it righted itself and soon were driving along a dirt track. We though the journey would take a few hours but we didn’t arrive until dark. Met so many happy people and on the badly-rutted road helped out a bridegroom in a Capri with blobs of cotton wool stuck all over it and towed a mammy wagon to bump start it. It rained heavily most the afternoon and was dark and pouring when the police stopped us for driving after 6pm but a dash sent them off smiling and we found a nice but expensive hotel with the help of a little Ghanaian who tried to get us to pay for his taxi fare and got Garry out of the bath to ask him.

We had breakfast in the hotel - Garry had omelette and I had boiled eggs. When we left the hotel we drove around Kamasi which was an exciting, busy town with run down Portuguese buildings making up the whole town.

After being carefully directed out of town by a crowd of helpful police, we set off to Accra. The read was much better than yesterday and we had a good drive. We stopped in a small town called Sutum, which was supposed to have a campsite - which we couldn’t find so stopped for a drink in a grotty hotel. We were harassed by a gin lead banker and soon escaped from him.

Accra was a very busy town and we were stuck in our first traffic jam. We eventually found a big hotel but it was run down and expensive so we left it and the next 3 hotels were fully booked. It was getting dark and just as we were getting anxious luckily found a small pretty hotel. As we parked Rover, broke the wooden cover of the roadside gutter and the owner saw and laughed! We had a small room with no air conditioning but it was cheap. At dinner we caught the funny little waiter out when he tried to overcharge us for cigs. He acted like a guilty schoolboy but by the time we left was laughing again. We met a lovely old couple at dinner, who had done quite a lot of travelling and were so happy with each other. We went for a walk with them after dinner and they seemed to have a great attitude to life. His last job before retirement was to return to Ghana for 2 months artist work.

After breakfast and changing money at the hotel we set off for Boti Waterfalls. We followed the directions given to us from the old English couple but we got lost again in Accra. Eventually we were heading in the right direction and on a pretty winding mountain road overlooking the flat land and forest towards Accra. We stopped to take photos and take in the view and feel the coolness of the height.

We were soon driving through many small villages and had to ask directions many times - with conflicting views, we did a relay from one village to another and then passed a nice looking bar so stopped for a cold drink. They only had beer so we shared one. It was then that we met a very smartly dressed Ghanaian couple and they exchanged addresses with us and they invited us to go to the Botanical gardens in their village and visit their house.

We arrived at the Falls at about 2 and walked the 250 steps to see the beautiful falls falling into a bowl shape pool surrounded by the lush forest. The house near them is in charge of the falls and there is a small run-down guest house - it is near many small villages and just off Boti village. We quickly made friends with the family from the house but we got caught for at least 1 hour being preached to by the village Pastor Thompson. There was a sign to the caves and Umbrella Rock, so we followed the path but after half an hour through the forest and long grass we still couldn’t see it, so decided to go back and ask someone to take us!

We had a lovely cool nights sleep and awoke at 7 to be greeted by Patrick - he sat with us while he had breakfast and then took us the so-called easy 1½ km walk to the caves and Umbrella Rock. Well, we walked through the forest, down a small track descending a valley and over rocks and tree trunks like goats. He walked so fast that we were soon wringing wet and panting madly. The walk was worth it to the caves and we rested a short time. Across the valley down to 50m and then up the other side he pointed to the rock and we thought we would never make it. The going got really tough, I was frightened of falling as we climbed up the other side. We passed traps where we saw a skeleton of a Grass Cutter (like a rat) and then a dead python about 8 inches in diameter! The great flat rock indeed looked like a giant umbrella surveying the whole valley. We collapsed there and enjoyed the view as much as we could under the circumstances and then set off for the return journey by the top of the mountain that he assured us was flatter but longer and it certainly was longer but took us through a couple of 2 house villages. Garry had to ask for a glass of water from them. Later it poured down with rain and we had to sit inside joined by the 3 or was it 4 children. We started playing cards. Later that evening Patrick joined us for beer with 5 or 6 others and all the children, a few of us played cards their way? and they danced to the Reggae tapes even Abrahama, the little girl with polio in her left leg. All the children were sweet, matured, sharing and very happy. What a day to remember.

Abraham, the Reggae man who wants to be a musician in England invited us to go to the Falls to see if he had caught any fish from his nets. So we set our alarm and got up at 6.30 to go down the 250 steps in the cool morning air. He had caught a codfish and after gutting it he hung out his net to dry. The big holes he said came from big crabs and the many water snakes.

After sharing tea, Patrick and Abraham took us by car to a nearby village to meet the Doctor, a very fit looking man of 60 years who said he had been a nurse for 35 years before retiring with his own private clinic. We sat under the shade of a tree just by his mud house while his wife cooked under a shelter and the kids, goats and chickens roamed free. He told us the story of how Boti falls and the Umbrella Rock originated. I promised him I would write it down to remember it.

“An old wicked King called Boti used to make his servants carry him on a bed over the falls, with his wife. This all happened about 500 years ago and the people planned an uprising. They were going to take him up to the top and push him off but one of his carriers pulled him to one side and told him. In turn, the King told the Queen and she said he was a man and should act like one and not ask his Queen for advice, so the King plotted with his carrier to tie all the rest of the men’s hair to his bed and so when they threw him in - they would all perish with him. The next day when they struggled up to the top of the falls he ties their hair but as they pushed him over the edge the King was too slow and fall to his death there. His wife mourned for her dead King and went to mourn in the cave. She saw the Umbrella rock and sat under its shelter to think. The rock is named after her (name forgotten).”

After this great story he led us a short way into the bush and there he showed us “God’s platform” a great flat rock that overlooks the whole valley. Then further on were 2 flat rocks about 6 feet by 4 that had been carved into squares - inside each was a symbol depicting a part of the body or animal. They were vague pictures and we didn’t know how they knew, if indeed they did, what they represented. That evening all the children, the chief of the village (a young man), Patrick and Abraham, and A.N.Other spent the evening dancing to Reggae and drank beer again! The children helped me with the washing and we all walked down to the falls, even the little girl on crutches hobbled

When we woke it was pouring with rain and no-one was about - so we sat it out in the Rover for about 2 hours reading. We didn’t have one match so we couldn’t even have a cuppa. Then in the rain Abraham and the little one appeared, wrapped up in a towel and saturated. He had found her in the village crying from the cold and brought her back - the village was 2 miles away! As we were packing to leave, people gathered to see us off, even the doddering old man from the village. We gave Patrick and Abraham some money, his wife a blouse and the older 2 children a bangle, the next one my book worm and the other some cards. They were over the moon - but funniest of all were the children’s sunglasses that I tried to give to the little one - they were too big so the old puny man took them and pranced around like a king - he said that he could see better with them. We left feeling contented and thankful for the precious gift they had shown us.

Drove to the Akisombo dam, through small villages again and one man got in to give us directions. The dam is the largest man-made lake in the world and stretches 500kms long surrounded by forest. On our way to Accra we stopped to ask a crowd for directions and they beckoned us over - from a pile of stray they raked out a snake. They were terrified of it and we got closer than them. They told us it was a Cobra but it was a Python. Back in Accra we stopped at the Pleasure Beach and they said we could camp there. Sam the Great, is a huge wise Old Man who is the Boss, he made us very welcome and that night sat outside talking to the 4 boys who work here. They slept just outside on a wooden platform.

I couldn’t believe the change in the place, last night we camped on a quiet beach and this morning there are white bodies sunning themselves everywhere. It was a beautiful day so after a communal cup of tea with our adopted family we went to sit on the beach. The sea is a little calmer here than Abidjan but the floor is uneven and becomes very deep by the shore in places so you have to swim between the 2 red flags.

After getting very hot we went for a drink with Sam’s sons. They are all body builders but ever so gentle and well educated. We talked to a Swiss girl who lives with a Rasta and has a baby, she lives an African and makes and sells jewellery on the beach. When we got back to the van Des and Jackie turned up - they had been out looking for us. Their contact in Accra had proved to be very rich and they had been waited on hand and foot. They have a python in a cage at the bar and Garry put it round his neck.

That evening the boys went for their chop and then gave us some fags. Daniel then started to teach us Ashanti but I couldn’t remember one word, so I started writing down the phonetic spelling. They told us that Today is the other one with an actual job (paid 7000 cedes per month = £14) and the other get 50 cedes (10p) during the week and 100 cedes at weekends. They work 24 hours a day. By day they fetch and carry for the whites and by night they are security officers, but after all that they don’t stop laughing and joking.

We met many people who came over to chat to us and gave out addresses so many times that I won’t remember who’s who if they all write. By 11 Des and Jackie arrived and proceeded to change the atmosphere of the place: table and chairs came out with the sun tan lotion and strings of pearls were to be seen! Des has changed so much though and is totally relaxed, even answering Madam back on occasions. We sat around the vans most of the day and Jackie and I went for a swim. We drank beer and ate pineapple and boufous (delicious round doughnuts).

That evening, after taking a freezing shower at the Russians compound (not allowed so have to wait until they have all gone home). Daniel walked us to the junction on the main road to get a taxi, after much discussion we found one that said he knew the Marharga Indian restaurant but took us miles out of our way to the seedy bus station. By this time it was raining so without wipers he had to stick his head out of the window, radio on full so we sat back on the broken seat and prayed our time hadn’t come. We eventually found it and enjoyed one of the nicest Indian meals ever, served up by smiling Ghanaians wearing traditional Indian outfits! The food was great but their timing was awful and we received our main course while eating our starters. They called a cab for us but when we reached the beach we though he had gone too far so he let us out and we had to walk in the pitch black along the main road, late at night, but had no problems.

By the time we get up at about 7 the boys have already weeded their ½ acres garden of Cassava that they have to keep for Sam. We had our breakfast then went to town to get money, food and books, all fairly essential items. Firstly, the money; we went back to the Liberty Hotel who changed up at such a good rate last time. After delay, they told us they didn’t have any cedes, so we drove round and found a new bureau. They said they couldn’t change it because although they were open they didn’t have a licence yet. The man did offer to take us to one so in he jumped and we finally got our money. Food; the supermarkets are strange - they have a few good items then empty shelves. So after going to 5, we eventually bought 6 items, of which ½ of them were not needed (nutella!) After the same amount of bookshops I found one that had a French book and a second-hand translation book. When we got back they gave us some Gurri, dried Cassava mixed to a paste with water with ground peanuts and whole ones with lots of sugar. Garry didn’t like it at all but I managed quite enough not to offend them. Des and Jackie came round to tell us what the Embassy said. We had a terrible thunder storm so we were shepherded off to the old straw roofed Disco, which leaked badly!

That night we watched them make the palm nut soup and rice, delicious fluffy stuff that took hours to steam. The nut soap had tomatoes, onions, sardines and lots of pepper! So hot that I only managed a bit and could taste it all night. Garry ate a little and they finished off great plate fulls. It was a good evening and Daniel told us about the dralves with wiry hair, feet that point backwards so you can’t follow them. You can only see them when you are with the witch doctor and they speak ???? language although they are only 3 feet tall.

Had a lazy morning on the beach and I did lots of washing. Death promised to make us Foufou and started first thing in the morning preparing the Cassava.

Daniel offered to take us to market in the afternoon but there wasn’t time between seeing Des and Jackie and eating the long awaited Foufou. The boiled cassava is pummelled smooth with a mortar and pestle then water is added until it forms a smooth dough. In the meantime the soup was made in the same way as last night but fresh fish was added and roasted sheep skin - wool and all. This simmered for about 5 hours with a little water religiously added. We arranged to meet Des and Jackie for a drink so were served ours first. The Foufou is eaten with the right hand then dunked into the spicy soup - awful. Foufou should be used instead of cement - it sticks to every crevice - so is better swallowed without chewing! After this feast Frank came over, python around wrist for us to hold, round neck for a photo. I was surprised how calm I was! We went for a hike to the junction for a taxi and met the terrible twins for a quick drink; we got a guest who was a taxi driver to take us back.

Had a good evening with the boys, who were still munching into Foufou. Garry and I played backgammon with the light from the fire and Daniel wanted to play! Amazingly after 2 games he got the hang of it.

In the morning it was a beautiful day so we went for a walk along the beach to where the river meets the sea. One side of this tiny estuary was cold shallow sea water but as we wadded through, it got thigh high and warm from the river. There were a few men fishing and it was a lovely peaceful spot. I did some more washing and then wrote a long letter to Mum.

Daniel then offered to take us to the market, so after getting permission from Sam, we set off, but first directed us to his home village where his brother, wife and children live in a tiny corrugated hut. We attracted a big crowd of kids and so game them some sweets. After this we parked up and went inside the large shed with narrow alleys that form the market. The spices, peppers and vegetables were perfectly set in pyramids and the aroma was exotic. We bought some rice, onions, tomatoes and then moved onto another section that was divided into tiny butchers shops. Each one only had one hunk of meat so we had to settle for that. They told us after some dispute that it was cow but didn’t look like it! When we got back Garry started cooking Chilli for everyone but they still made bucket fulls of Foufou and ate both. The Chilli was devoured eagerly but it didn’t occur to any of them to thank us or compliment it. They just added about ½ cup of salt to each one!

It was again a lovely morning and we leisurely tidied up the van while the crazy Nigerian man washed it, even underneath. We both showered in the open air and were ready when Des and Jackie got back from Boti Falls at about 1. We said our farewells to Sam and sons and they gave us a lovely coconut. When we said goodbye to all the boys gave them a few tee-shirts and cigs, they were really sorry to see us go and we game them our address.

Back on the road and after many harmless and jovial police checks we arrived at Ada at about 5. Des stopped for petrol but wasn’t allowed to sell it to tourists so he had to drive up the road, where much to the enjoyment of the local kids he got stuck in soft sand and they had to push him out. He then walked back with Jerry Cans and called them after dark (secret squirrel stuff).

We reached a beautiful spot with the Black Volta River 10 feet away and behind us the sea. There were brightly coloured fishing boats moored up and soon we attracted a crowd of fishermen, they were going out that night and promised us a tuna. We had a wonderfully mellow evening watching the fast river and I cooked some lovely cheese and tomato omelettes. We were vary of every splash in the water as Sam the fisherman said there were crocodiles in there. We game them a packet of biscuits for their long sea haul without any lights and they were like ecstatic children.

During breakfast we had an audience of about 25 women and children and Des gave a demonstration on washing up! Jackie and I took a walk up the mud road to where Prince Charles had spent a secluded holiday with a girlfriend. It was a very normal looking wooden chalet. We got back just in time for a torrential downpour and watched the poor fishermen continue in the rain. We stopped at a pretty open air café for a few drinks and then bought some fresh coconut, tomatoes, okra and bread!, to finish up our useless cedes bought a bottle of brandy for £1 (a ¼ of the cost was for the bottle!) Jackie bought two pots for 10p.

Very soon we arrived at the hectic border town of Afloa to Togo and like Morocco men were eager to help you through the procedure. Our lorry driver helped us speed through the many formalities with no problems even though we hadn’t registered at Immigration in Accra as we should have. The town was right on the beach and it looked possible to just walk along the waters edge into Togo. It took us time to adjust to speaking French again in Togo but most people spoke a little English anyway. The Togo authorities were very organised and professional and we realised we would miss the happy-go-lucky Ghanaians. ????? strikes you as very clean, modern and French. The beach was lovely and they had planted palms along it. The car’s surging problem go a lot worse but luckily we quickly found a great campsite/hotel on the beach with a nice restaurant and a menagerie and avery. Just in front of where we stopped was a shipwreck. We cooked a feast of lobster cocktail, then fried egg, ham, Heinz baked beans, mash and fried tomatoes (Yummy)!

After breakfast and a cold shower we packed up and went in search of the Land Rover garage but after eventually finding it, it was closed until Monday. We also found by accident the Control Union office but the manager wasn’t there so we left a note and arranged to call back.

Back at the campsite we chatted to the 3 German van owners and a French man who had done the same journey in a big Merc camper (with a lot of difficulty). We were then rained inside Rover again. Had a clear out of cupboards and papers. When it temporarily eased off we went for a drink to the bar.

At 6, we went back to the Control Union office where we met a very excited older gentleman called John, who worked Guy Forks but is away in Abidjan. He made us very welcome in Guys flat and even said we could stay there if we wanted. After a drink and chat he invited us to go for a meal that evening, so as we were still soaking wet from the downpour we washed and tried to make ourselves presentable for the Expat society.

He took us to a very nice German restaurant and he talked from 7.30 to 11.30. It as a long evening and past our bed time when we got back to the dark sleepy campsite at 12.

We didn’t get up until nearly 8 and it was nice laying in bed watching and listening to the sea in our fuzzy awakening state.

We ambled about showering and breakfasting. Then I did my scrubber woman impression with the washing, God Bless the inventor of washing machines!

While we were sitting talking to Des and Jackie, an American lady called Claudia joined us, she has been back-packing for a year from India, Nepal and Bhutan to Israel, Jordan, Egypt, Sweden, CAR, Cameroon, Nigeria then here.  What a gutsy lady! She was the mother of 2 grown up children and a widow, but nevertheless a bit strange; she couldn’t coordinate her conversations and totally confused us. While talking to her John from Control Union popped by but only stayed ½ and hour and said he would return tonight for a drink with us.

It was a scorching day so we sought out the cool refuge of the bar for a while. When we got back we read and I practiced my French for a while. Dinner wasn’t very successful; pilchards, tomato sauce and spaghetti, followed by corn on the cob ½ hour later. It was a blustery evening so we went to bed early and read. In the meantime, while Des and Jackie were in the bar John turned up to have a drink with us but didn’t disturb us cos he thought we were asleep. Oops sorry John.

We got up early and were preparing to go to the garage when the Frenchman said that at 9 o’clock last night it was announced that today would be a public holiday. Another day of waiting, nevertheless we went to Control Union to see John and after tea and a chat drafted a telex to Nigeria. He drove off to get a telex operator for us and surprisingly we got through 1st time. On the way back we bought some lovely orange carrots (not the usual sickly looking variety) and pleased a lovely little girl by buying her whole stock of bread rolls - 8 of them.

We got back to meet Des and Jackie going for a drink so we joined them. Des then made some lovely Vegi-bangers, which we feasted on with lashings of tomato sauce and mustard in the fresh crispy rolls. Another cloudless day tempted us to the sea for a swim. Here there is a natural barrier of rock about 20ft out but even so the waves are quite lively.

Garry and I had a laugh trying to drown each other! When we got back quite a tea party was taking place, Bruno (who Des and Jackie met in Fugurig) travelling alone with his dog, his 2 French friends and Lewis, a man of about 60, long haired and frail frames, who is cycling around the world! It was interesting talking to these fellow travellers tales. Lewis was telling how he missed death from a herd of elephants! Made a lovely stew with a tine of steak, tomatoes, sweet corn, ladies fingers and carrots and then successfully met John for a drink, later we were joined by Lewis. The 2 people total opposites except having a liking to be centre of attention with their travel tales - was not a happy combination.

Was fed, watered and stowed away by 8.30 and on our way to the UAC Garage that we had already visited 3 times when it was closed. Could we find the blessed place this time! We must have driven for about ¾ hour when Garry frustratedly punched the windscreen and we saw a cobweb of cracks appear on it!! The results of which needed no comment from me, and we soon found the garage. I managed a fairly lucid conversation in French and to our surprise said the work could be covered by warranty and to drive around the back. A cheerful dwarf of a man who spoke English efficiently started work on our baby and we soon discovered there was, as suspected, air in the fuel system as well as quite a lot of muck. He sent us around the block for a test drive, where we ended up going to the bank, buying a game and being over ½ hour. It was spluttering still so he told us to return at 2.30. Went to Johns but waited 2 hours and he didn’t arrive, so we treated ourselves to a burger before returning to the garage. He came for a drive with us and all was OK, so we gave him CFA1000 for his trouble, which pleased him immensely and returned to Johns, received a stupid telex from Lagos to which we replied then went to the supermarket. From there we went to a short hairy French doctor for our cholera booster, which he did there and then without an appointment and we got back to camp at about 6.30 after a busy day. Had one of our best meals so far with stew from last night and boiled potatoes - our 1st in 4 months. Again the evening brought gales in from the sea and we sat inside a somewhat healthier Rover and played our new game, then read before turning in, with somewhat stiff left arms!

Both felt a bit rough from the cholera jab so didn’t rush to do much. Garry and I did a load of washing together then as we hung it out it rained.

We had some lunch then went to Johns to see if there was a response to our telex but there wasn’t.

Then we went in search of an insurance company as the car insurance runs out on the 30th. After a tour of the town we found 2 companies but they were both very expensive. In Niger we bought 3 months to cover all West Africa for 19000 CFA, here the cheapest was 35000 for 1 month for Benin and Nigeria. So we decided to get some more quotes before buying. We quickly went to the store again to buy a new torch, before going back to the campsite.

We moved the Rover behind a pilothe out of the wind from the sea and Garry cooked a lovely savoury mince with fresh meat, carrots and tomatoes with potatoes and green beans. We just eat in time before the heavens opened and we had to retreat inside Landy for the night. We did some French revision and cracked up at the translation of the African/French songs in the books. Lights out at 10.

As we woke up at 7.30 it was beginning to rain. (We were woken up in the night by another storm). It progressively got worse so after breakfast we retreated to the dry bar for coffee and read for a while there. We sat chatting to Des and Jackie under the veranda of a pilothe until 12 when it stopped.

We again went to Johns where there was a telex awaiting - saying someone will collect us at the Nigerian border on Wed 6/7. Great Stuff! From there we went to see Bruno at the other campsite. He’s a nice bloke. There are also 3 other Land Rovers here. A group of New Zealanders and 2 American girls in an English one with some Overland Equipment. We stopped there for lunch of omelettes and chips. Then went back to town and met Des and Jackie trying to buy insurance. We eventually got some in a building at the back of a branch of BBL 16000 CFA (£32) for 2 weeks!

Went back to Bruno’s campsite and camped 10 feet away from the sea. Garry cooked beautiful pork chops and onions, green beans, carrots and potatoes, followed by chocolate mousse.  I attempted to repair Garry’s patchwork jeans by the moonlight. Had a restless night sleep and ended up sleeping top and tail.