Today, unfortunately, we are full of sadness. Sidney left home for his usual afternoon stroll on Monday and by the time we awoke on D-Day there was still no sign of the lad.

After checking with the police and vets we combed the fields and streets, rather damp eyed.

I continued with the final details of our packing with slow movements and a heavy heart.

After soaking up the spring scents of the garden and memorising each wood wormed beam, we dragged the front door to a close and drove off in the full sunshine.

We stopped off at a Happy Eater for dinner and arrived early at Portsmouth. The customs guy was officially inquisitive and even checked our passports to go to Jersey!

We squeezed into the ferry with about 4 inches to spare and proceeded to open an arthritic night in the reclining seats. We sat next to two old hens from Manchester. They made the entire cabin start with the noisiest of cell phone and the blandest conversation.

Bought diesel as soon as we arrived in Jersey and the pump assistant asked if he could photo Rover and then us as well. We got to Lisa’s and her and Sandy were frantically washing up and very pleased to see us. They flew off to work and we went to do a shop for the last few bits.

Met Spike and Sandy for lunch and then Garry had his hair cut by Lisa in the salon – where we had coffee after.

Garry got absolutely blotto at the restaurant in the evening. It was really nice because there were 14 of all the Jersey crowd. They came back to Lisa’s and we all listened to the sounds of Garry’s heaving and then snoring in the loo!

Nick woke us up at 8:45 to tell us he had got off work for a week because he was supposedly sick. Ian came round at 10ish and later walked Sandy to work and then had lunch at Pizzaland. Had a tête-à-tête on life and then met Brian at 2pm and went to Nick’s.

Nick’s flat looks even more like a Young Ones sketch but he really makes you feel at home. We then watched a horrific film call The Fly.

Brian then said he was too stoned to take us shopping and told us to borrow his new 4 week old XR3; which Garry promptly hit and broke the indicator lens. It was lucky that was all the damage and the other car was fine. We met Lisa after shopping and she left work early. I think we upset her because we were supposed to meet her for coffee, but we were too late.

Garry made a lovely chilli and then met Ian for a drink. Sandy and Spike wanted to stay in as they were tired. We had a nice quiet night as opposed to the prior evening.

Went for a drive and smoke at beach and had a good chat with Lisa.

Went for a big fry up breakfast at Dean’s café and had a talk to him about music. Brian came round and didn’t seem to mind at all about his car.

We had a nice send off as Lisa, Sandy, Spike and Trish managed to get a lunch, where we had hot buttered, hot cross buns. Spoke to Dad on phone, but Mum’s and my calls missed each other.

Lisa bought me a great Mickey Mouse watch and I wished I had a token to my friendship in return. She got upset when we said goodbye and I felt the same, but didn’t show it. We realised Nick had our top hose, but our time was short and turned back from his house to catch the ferry.

Chug very touchingly turned up as we queued for the ferry to bid farewell.

The boat was small, but it was a lovely sunny day and the crossing short. We sailed through customs and drove an hour outside St Malo, bought French stick, cheese, ham and vin rouge and camped on a stream in car park near the camp site. It was really strange bedding up for the first time and it amusedly vexed us. We played back gammon in bed and lights out at 9:30; we noticed it snowing!

Got up at 7.30 to a frosty and sunny morning. The fields were covered in a smattering of snow! Stopped in a small town for breakfast and couldn’t find anywhere to eat! In the end we found a boulangerie and ate croissants and café au lait then drove on, after a pleasant walk around the market. It was all fresh fruit and veg and very lean meat.

We went to St. Jean de Mont but I couldn’t recognise our old caravan site and it was all built up which totally shattered my childhood memory.

We bought some lovely frits and French stick for lunch in a strange town that had loads of dug up roads and pavements in between their modern shops. Went into a seedy bar to use their toilet and have coffee and we sampled our first French latrine.

Got the toll motorway down to just past Bordeaux and found a nice camp site in forest and then hunted for a place to eat. Tried a bar, that was totally empty and a very friendly old barman directed us to a restaurant, that turned out to be shut! Anyway we found a nice restaurant and feasted on a homemade potage, sausage, tomato & potato salad, pork chops & green beans, then Garry had fromage and me apple tart and all in such a friendly, empty place for £4.50 each!.

Hurried into bed away from the cold at 10.30, to write you.

Didn’t wake up till 9.30 with the sound of a cockerel impersonating a wolf. Made a cup of tea for the 1st time in van and then set off. We wanted to find a creperie but misunderstood the style of restaurant and ended up in a fairly posh restaurant. We only chose Mexican salad and that turned out to be a starter - most embarrassing as everyone else was dress in Sunday best for their leisurely lunch!

Drove straight to the border and sailed through. Realised we didn’t have any pesetas and were on a toll road. Luckily there was a bank and we changed a euro cheque served by a very unfriendly cashier.

We were excited by our first sight of Pyrenees Mountains and even more so when the road took us higher & higher up them. Eventually everything around us covered in snow and it was raining hard. We stopped in a wooden chalet style hotel and had coffee and doughnuts.

Drove for about 3 hours, (through a great sunset) more, but we were still fairly high up and mountains all around so we decided to have a cold night and find a camp. Stopped at what we thought was camping & restaurant was actually a hotel. Anyway, we ended up having a 3 course meal & wine for £3.50 each. I had beans, ham & hack (fish) and Garry ???? & chicken. The waiter told us about a campsite but we couldn’t find it & ended up on motorway again, and so here we are, parked in the hotel car park. Its 11pm and Garry’s started talking to the shortwave again while trying to touch his nose with his tongue! We’ve got aerial wire all around us, but still no sign of any music or current affairs!

Woke at 9 and had a mad panic to get dressed to run to the loo, which meant going into the hotel where we slept in their car park and having coffee.

I had my first drive through the mountains. Its very hard going as the slightest move on the wheel makes Rover sway. We were amazed how far the mountains carried on for.

Garry took over again as we entered Madrid. We were going to go into the centre to buy some food etc. but we saw traffic jams and even the ring-road was mayhem. The Spanish are mad drivers and overtake kamikaze style. As we drove round Madrid the sun shone and by the time we stopped for a break it was lovely and warm. We sat outside the café and bought a ham roll, but it was Parma ham so I only ate the bread. Spent a sunny hour or so by a river for a cuppa.

We stopped at a beautiful town called “Toledo” (as in Triumph) and found a great camp site with swimming pool/restaurant/shop and we parked right on the river bank. Garry showered while I cooked our first meal - chilli. I must admit it takes getting used to living in such a confined space, its all a case of organisation, this isn’t my strongest point.

Had a restless night as we slept on a slant and I kept rolling on top of Garry. I got up and had a shower straight away, it was lukewarm but very refreshing. It was another cloud less sky and we pottered around by the river. I did some washing and then we went to town. We still haven’t got the hang of the lingo, so I ended up with a cheese roll & Garry’s hamburger was fishcake roll.

The fuss everyone makes of the van is embarrassing, well not embarrassing but more a pity.

Came back to the campsite early and lazed about then I sorted out cabinets while Garry washed the van, while water is still plentiful. We watched the swallows dancing and the fish leaping out of the water.

Then we went for a drink at the bar - this really is the prettiest campsite I’ve been to - with the swimming pool overlooking such a graceful old town. As the sun went down the bats came flying over to catch their first breath of nightfall.

We decided to eat at the site restaurant and although we had bought a Spanish dictionary I ended up with Spanish omelette and Garry pawn omelette. For the main course I had Rabbit (that looked like kidney) and Garry veal (that resembled steak). Garry thought he was having a pudding and ended up with Crème Caramel and I had lovely fresh pineapple. But we had lots to drink and that’s why my writing’s funny - Bed time now.

Buenos Aires - bad news, I’ve got a cold but Garry is being his usual compassionate self and packed the bed away and made tea.

We didn’t ???? packing away and filled all the water Jerry’s before we left at about 11am.

We drove solid in the sunshine until about 2 and stopped in a mountain for a picnic. At which time Garry, who was snapping away, realised that the camera had no film in, so no photos of Europe!

I never realised how mountainous Spain was and on those mountains most were covered with orange groves and vineyards.

We finally reached Granada at about 6.30 and stumbled upon the campsite of our choice. It’s still in the mountain region and is on the edge of a lake with a pine forest surrounding it.

We’ve just been for what we thought was a cheap meal but turned out to be quite dear. We think Rover has an oil leak and are just looking into it - it may mean returning to Madrid, well it’s only a day away and better now that in Africa.

Woke early at 7.30 and watched the sun rise.

Garry tightened the sump bolds & he thinks cured the leak. We then left at about 9 and went to busy Granada. As we approached a Spanish bloke asked if we were looking for Alhambra Car Park, we said ‘yes’ and then ran up a steep hill and showed us into a space. Then he asked for PTA 1000 and jovially informed us if we didn’t pay he would slit our throats, so we paid! A pregnant Spanish lady then gave me a carnation and started to read my palm - then asked for money for her bambino. Alhambra is still beautiful but the wrong season as there were lots of workmen and not many flowers. We left at lunchtime and drove south, heading for Malaga. After stopping for provisions we drove through mountainous countryside in which every inch was farmed with either olive, orange or vines. We pulled in for lunch on the side of the road and then headed for Malaga. We stopped at one campsite in the middle of a building site and drove on to Almuncaz, which is full of Germans. It’s just over the road from the beach, which has black sand, but the clear Mediterranean looks appetising.

As soon as we arrived at about 5 we went for a drink or two at the bar on the beach and then when we got back Garry cooked Chilli, very hot with pork mince, while I had a cold shower. Garry is letter writing now, so I’ve decided to log on.

Garry’s birthday and the poor bloke got nothing from me, except a peck on cheek.

We packed fairly sharpish. Even then it takes about an hour to grab a quick bowl of muesli and pack the bed away.

Drove all the way to Gibraltar and then on Algericas, where we were to get the ferry to Tangers.

As we approached the ferry terminal there were lots of touts trying to sell us tickets and as far as the eye could see shops all claiming to be official ticket agents. So we parked up, alarm and all, and walked to buy the tickets. Once inside, we had our first taste of what North Africa would be like as there were Arabs everywhere. We sussed out the agents from our Ref books and bought tickets for the Saturday sailing and after changing up some money left Algeciras to find a campsite.

We found a pretty one on the beach but when we went to park found a peculiar concoction of people that looked like a cross between has-been travellers and gypsies. They were friendly enough and 1 guy in a gipsy caravan chatted for ages to us - he reckoned he was a film director and even had some equipment - so we will never know the truth!

Garry woke up early and woke me to show the sun rising over the sea. What a great sight to see on opening your eyes. I bet even the biggest millionaires can’t claim to see that from their bed.

Thoroughly checked Rover and oil leak appears to be us being paranoid and a sweaty joint. We’ve decided to go to Casablanca for the Rover garage there, just to be on the safe side.

We had a lovely crossing on the ferry as it was midday and warm with a clear view. There was a concoction of backpackers, American tourists and Arabs, we appeared to have bought up half the Spanish supermarkets.

When we got off the ferry our first sight of Morocco was crazy - organised chaos prevailed and we didn’t know who was an official or not. Apparently we should have had our passports stamped whilst on board and a friendly customs man got this done for us. Then, after customs we had to get insurance and runners were vying for our approval to chose one of them. A ???? Arab got into the van, after ousting me into the back and took us to the insurance office. Of course he wanted commission for his service. It had turned quite cloudy and the fields were a lush green, giving you the idea of being in England - until you saw people. We drove along the most beautiful coast I have ever seen - deserted golden beaches and the Atlantic’s surf crashing onto the sand. We found a campsite that was full of German and Dutch campervans and passed the time with them. Had a walk to the beach and saw people walking their cattle and all sorts but not using the beach as we would.

Headed towards Casablanca and mid morning was stopped for a police check - ended up paying £40 for the privilege! An hour later was stopped again for another police check, and he only took a boiled sweet!

Stopped by the beach for lunch and a cheeky little boy kept asking for money - he got some bread and cheese, a sweet and some cigs! We didn’t mind cos he was funny.

We arrived at Casablanca expecting to find the Land Rover garage but hardly any of the shops had signs up, let alone the streets being sign posted. After aimlessly driving on the cobbled roads we asked a policeman for directions and he wanted a pack of Marlboro for the trouble! His directions turned out to be wrong anyway (and in Arabic). By this time we were cheesed off and drove off to find a campsite. It took us ages just to get out of the town.

We found a campsite but its just for the Moroccan’s and wasn’t very clean. We were suspicious of the slightest noise as wasn’t very far out of town.

After checking the van again, we were satisfied that there wasn’t anything wrong with it, so would take a last look to find the garage and if we couldn’t find it to start heading for the Sahara.

It was a hard day and by the end of it Garry was quite depressed. I surprisingly felt OK.

Got up at 9 but by the time we were ready it was 11.15. Drove back to Casablanca and found the British Consulate immediately - we wanted to ask them about the car 1CMV form that had the Reg. No. written wrongly. They couldn’t help but we got directions to the Land Rover garage. It was absolute chaos with Donkeys, Carts, Motorbikes and Kamikaze pedestrians everywhere. With the lack of street names we lost our bearings for garage after 5 minutes - so decided even if we did find it, judging by the state of the other, we should leave well alone. We headed back to the motorway, easier said than done, even by using compass directions it took over an hour to get out of town!

We stopped in Rabat for diesel and Garry changed up some dollars. Had lunch while driving along to catch up on lost time.

Had a pleasant drive through some lovely countryside, fields full of mauve flowers. People selling all sorts of things at the roadside - some we didn’t even know what they were. One man was selling a live fox! We bought some lovely eggs for tea.

Drove till quite late - just before dark and couldn’t find a proper campsite. So we are in a parking area by the main road, behind a wooded area. I cooked cheese and ham omelettes and as we weren’t happy about security, slept fully clothed with one ear cocked for disturbances!

After a restless night we got up at 7am! As there was a boy selling oranges by the read near us, we packed up and went without washing or breakfast. We had a lovely drive beside the Atlas mountain range and stopped at 11 for breakfast and a brew up. Then we quickly washed under the shower and set off into the sunshine.

Stopped to let the engine cool down and passed a pleasant hour with 2 railway workers, who appeared from nowhere. The nearest village was at least 20K away but as usual we saw a couple of people walking, one on a donkey and one on a bike! Garry noticeably caught the sun in that short while. Earlier on I picked some pretty yellow flowers (weeds) and now all around was dry with a few hardy trees. It didn’t seem possible that the scenery could change so quickly.

We stopped at Oujda for diesel and water and then walked around the medina. This was a really pretty and clean town. The people were far more pleasant and no-one propositioned us (except to change money). The medina was straight from the story book. Filled with an array of different smells, fruits, spices and cooked meats.

As we drove out of town we had a police check but it was fine. We then found a forest area to camp in for the night. What a pleasant day.

Got up at 6.30! and after seeing two men on donkeys hurtling towards us we packed up in 15 mins - but the men went straight past.

Drove through some beautiful mountainous countryside and then the land became quite flat and dry. There was not a cloud in the sky and very hot. Although we drove our longest stretch, between towns of 200K we still saw people walking or sitting in the middle of nowhere.

Arrived at the border town of Figuig and it was idyllic with palm trees everywhere. As we approached it we drove through a swarm locusts and one even managed to stand on the bonnet at 50mph. They were at least 4 inches long!

Had to wait 2 hours for the commissionaire’s office to open so sat outside a bar and had a drink (with the cloud of locusts high above our heads). Met 3 German Rasta’s outside while waiting for the office to open. They had a big truck and had been travelling for 3 months with their German shepherd dog. We got on really well with them and gave them a lift back to the border. After completely the thousands of forms and dishing out another £10 to customs, Ollie, a mechanic, fixed our small oil leak and we cooked a meal ½ each ingredients and whiled away a pleasant evening under the stars with them. We were actually in No Mans land between Morocco and Algeria so most of the time we were joined by 2 harmless customs mean from Morocco.

Had to leave by midnight, so after swapping addresses, we drove to Algerian border. They were very thorough but professional and we had no problems except a pack of cigs, of course. We camped just outside town as we must go back in morning to customs.

Got up at 6.30 and by 8am we were on our way to the town, Beni Oued, to change the compulsory 1000 dinars each - we didn’t realise until in the bank that it works out at £200 each. We wont be able to spend that much and are hopeful that they will let us change some back on departure.

Drove quite a way, then found a beautiful oasis with a fresh-looking stream and many large palm trees. We had a lovely afternoon and washing each other hair. Dried some clothes in about 2 hours!

It appeared to be a beauty spot for the locals and we noticed a much more civilised nature than that of the Moroccans. When everyone had left we were amazed to see wild camels, about a dozen of them. They came quite close and regally laid in the same for a bath. They were very affectionate to each other - a cherished sight.

Witnessed a lovely sunset and then as we cooked dinner 3 blokes came to ask for some tomatoes. They said they lived in the open but I think that may have been a hard luck story for our behalf - they looked fairly well kept but weren’t very friendly.

Had a potter about in the morning and didn’t leave that gorgeous oasis till about 12. I couldn’t wait to see Tarhit, we had read so much about it.

We were definitely not disappointed - after driving on flat savannah we descended a large escarpment to see the village nestled in the Grand Erg Occidential - our first sight of the vast Sahara was magnificent.

The great adventurers then went in search of the tracks that lead to the ancient rock engravings but couldn’t find it!, and gave up.

Our handbook told us of a cheap hotel in the village that overlooks the erg so we treated ourselves to the luxury of staying there for a night. We longed for a swim in the pool but when we went to look it was empty. Anyway we had a long hot shower and changed for dinner. It was nice to have room to move around again.

At dinner we confused the waiter and ended up just having main course and sweet. It was quite nice but I had hoped to taste real Algerian cuisine and not steak and chips. Being a socialist country, the service wasn’t very good and millions of children arrived for a sight-seeing tour of the hotel. Then an hour later the equivalent of football hooligans in 3 coaches arrived for a drink. We retired to our room!

After breakfast, refreshed and clean we set off.

We drove all morning and stopped to buy bread but it was closed. It was really hot - the hottest so far.

At about 2pm, we arrived at Beri Abbes and went to a very interesting museum that had fossils and stuffed birds, snakes, insects and animals. There was a small zoo attached that showed the animals of the Sahara. Fennics, vultures, lizards and birds of prey.

Drove for another few hours and found a huge oasis just outside a village. There didn’t seem to be anyone about so we drove in to camp. There were people there - so we asked if we could stay. No-one could speak French and as we walked away, we saw lots of them running towards us. They were girls and children that frightened us! They were all dressed in the same colourful dress and bright head scarves. One girl spoke French and they excitedly showed us their sparse garden that had an irrigation system. We shook everyones hands and gave out sweets and biscuits. They were quite shy but as conversation dried they just stood and stared. It was a valuable experience to meet them. By the way, they eat locusts! We decided we caused too much of a stir and drove up the road and camped in a dig out clay hill where we had a great view of the palmerie below.

When we awoke we saw that a small animal, probably a fennec, had been around the van.

It was a cloudless day and we drove for miles on end without seeing a soul, then after the vast expanses of nothingness we saw a tree and stopped to shade Rover.

We saw a lizard cross the road as we sped through to Joshua Tree and saw the expanse of the horizon.

What an incredible place. You drive for hours on end through its flat history and then you see a man by the side of the road, or four camels, two adults and two young, the smallest we reckon was just 1 month old. We stopped the car and they all stood facing us with that disguised expression then turned their backs and began their walk into the wilderness. That’s adaptation for you.

Stopped for petrol in a “one horse” village and they had a café/shop out back. So we had an orange juice, bought eggs, sugared almonds, biscuits and cream cheese. After, we stopped for lunch on Ryvitas and Cream Cheese.

We’ve actually parked by a dune tonight. And earlier we walked to the top of one, Great, what a peaceful experience. Garry wants me to look at the stars with him now so I must go now “to dream I saw a desert night”.

Laid in till 9.30 then after petit dejuenez, we were off.

After driving for about 2 hours without seeing anyone/thing the road disappeared and there was a diversion on to the desert where a piste had formed.

The piste was badly rutted and corrugations had formed. I thought Rover was going to rattle to bits. After an hour, there was a shack - the only thing one could see in either direction. We stopped, as it turned out to be a café, and enjoyed their only drink, black tea in an egg cup size cup. It was so strong I thought it was coffee.

We continued on the piste for at least another 2 hours, trying the road every now and then but the potholes or total lack of road forced us to return to the piste. We finally reached Ain Salah, hot dusty and exhausted at about 7. But we couldn’t find the campsite recommended by S/Book. Stopped at the owners café and he helped us, sat us down, gave us soft drinks and got some unfriendly German campers to show us the site. The shower was in a mud hut with a piece of hose but it was bliss. Rover survived the drive but everything inside and out was covered in sand and had to be cleaned before bed.

There were also many mosquitoes but all wonder coils soon killed them off. Had a relaxing game of backgammon then bed at 12!

Woke up at 9 - just as our helpful camp owner delivered our bread! Such help is soothing here and where I’m sure mankind should surrender to the elements. Apparently in March, the sun reaches 40*C and it feels like that in the shade. The flies torment insistently, the water is salty and the host wind doesn’t tire of blowing the fine sand about.

The man who skies the dunes (camp owner) is going to take us to his friend, a mechanic, to service Rover at 5 and till then were pottering about hiding from sun, sand and flies. Saw the mechanic and after he had a quick look said no work was necessary.

Had a walk around the market. The stall holders selling their meagre wares - a few oranges, potatoes and a couple of boxes of matches etc. Looked around the town and had a drink of coffee from a grotty little bar. It fills you with a sense of sadness to see the few releases these people have, from the toil of living in such an arid place. It is a daily chore to attempt to tame the same from house, shop or palm trees. Stayed at the campsite another night and feasted on chicken curry and bread. Then relaxed for a pleasant evening that saw the last of flies, flying sand and mossies. It was a warm evening and enjoyed the splendour of the African stars that illuminate the whole sky. Wonders at the upside down moon that glows yellow.

After a leisurely start to the day, we were on the road by 11. But it was a misty although warm day, and the desert looked pink and unreal without a burning sun.

Although the road should have been good until Arak after only 50K it began to break up and we were forced to either leave it and risk the feche feche, or make the bone rattling journey over corrugations or dodging potholes.

At one stage the road was totally buried in sand and we picked our way around - after seeing several cars and lorries getting stuck. As we were only 5ft from the tarmac again, we ended up buried ourselves. Our first use of the sand ladders proved a success and we were going along the road within 15 mins.

We stopped briefly for lunch but the wind was harsh. It meant we couldn’t have any windows open so although relatively mild outside it was sweltering inside.

By the end of our lay and frustrating drive, the flat desert plain met the granite mountains and we winded through the boulders and dunes until we left the road and drove some distance into a bygone age. Perhaps the last person to be here was alive centuries ago. We had a peaceful walk to the summit of a nearby dune for photos at sunset.

We were on the road by 8 and the wind was still quite strong. We visited the tomb of Monlay Hasson, a Muslim holy man who died on his way to Mecca. A simple white building, that its customary for vehicles to drive around 3 times to show respect which we did.

Further on we met up again with the bikers, who luckily slept the night at the café. We stayed a while and had coffee. Then each van shielded each bike from the wind and sand.

When the wind dropped and we were on good road they stopped and we drove our separate ways. We stopped to examine some strange plants, like small melons growing on the ground - but apparently very poisonous. We were also intrigued to see a large “rubber plant” type tree with white flowers and peach type fruit, except they were soft like rubber tennis balls.

We arrived at Tammarrasset at 3, a clean and smart looking town and found the campsite straight away! Its full of a strange concoction of travellers doing similar trips, each for their own reasons. We were immediately approached by an English lady who was very impressed with ????? and was looking for a convoy.

We took cold - smelly showers and then spent the evening with Jackie and Des, who also had a L-Rover. After getting to know a New Zealander hitchhiker and a Dutch couple, minus their VW Combie, as they didn’t think it would make the journey. Had a late night, tiddly on Bacardi and Algerian Orange!

We got up late at 8.15 and dressed quickly to go to the Mali consulate for our visas. After sorting out all our papers in readiness. All that was needed was passport, passport photo and ???. It was so painless after all the scare stories we had been told.

Had a browse around the shops and market. Its a lovely relaxed and safe feeling atmosphere. Garry queued for ages for hot bread straight from the oven and burnt himself on it - while being mistaken for an arab.

We had a leisurely few hours chatting to one of the barber campsite staff and our NZ hitcher then returned to collect our passport with visas that were waiting for collection!

In the afternoon Garry helped Des with some mechanics and I did washing, Great Fun!

We had a meal at the campsite restaurant that was absolutely packed! The mean was basic but edible and although we didn’t know what meat we ate, Garry assured me it was chicken. I was still put off slightly after seeing their kitchen hygiene in general in Algeria. We managed to buy wine to take away so its being chilled for a special occasion.

Had a generally lazy day, socialising with a host of strange travellers and nationalities.

Des and Jackie fought most the day the battle of fitting everything in their Rover.

At about 4 we left to go through customs in Tam but after being sent to 3 different offices they said we didn’t need to until we reached the border.

Drove for about 11/2 hours through the Woggar Mountains and stopped to pitch camp nestled in a small hill that resembles a slag heap. There were 2 camels grazing in the distance. Some of hills around us look like they’ve been put through an egg slicer and we’re intrigued to find out what has happened to them - or what man has done to them.

Had a pleasant evening with our new convoy. But long term, I really can’t imagine that it will work out. Unfortunately they are used to the good life and finding it hard to adjust and relax enough to enjoy this treasured experience. They also drive very slowly - bogged down with their dinner party ready equipment. Early days yet and it is reassuring to travel with another vehicle.

Got up at 7 and waited for the old folk who weren’t ready until 9.40.

Road further and further into the arid desert seeing no wildlife and hardly any vegetation. We left the road more or less immediately upon driving on it as the so-called main North-South Trans Saharan route was an orange gravelled continuous corrugation. A dried Oued was running parallel with the road so we sped over its smooth surface and noticed the high river banks. We wondered at the beauty of being here just after rains, if it were possible, to see the profusion of plants and flowers that enter this world so fleetingly.

Stopped for a civilised lunch, unfortunately that included canapé, table, chairs and even olives. After 2 hours we were finally back on the road and feeling incredibly hot. The piste was so bad, with no markers, that at some points we were just following a few tracks, there was also far more soft sand than we had seen before but Garry is so much more confident and experienced that these patches are less daunting. We passed very few vehicles all day. By the way we acted as doctors and nurses for the 1st time today for two Niger men who had camped not far way along with 100’s of others and all their possessions in a lorry. The first guy was very skinny and had nasty bumps so we gave him some antiseptic cream - I think the other was OK really so he got a vitamin tablet.

After setting off at about 9.30 we soon realised that this wasn’t going to be an easy day. Jackie had been up all night with sickness and diarrhoea. We had only been driving for about ½ hour when we got stuck in the feche feche but it wasn’t too deep then again an hour after that but this time it was much deeper and we had to use Des’s sand ladders as well as our own. We had not passed any signs of civilisation for 2 days now and all around us was flat desert with tracks in all directions leading to the same destination. We met some mad french who were trying to get to Cameroon in 5 weeks in a Peugeot. Finally Des got stuck and then really stuck but luckily a Unimog saw and tried to tow them out but he also got stuck so it was all hands to the spades. At this point there was a dead coach and several car carcasses, wheels in the air and today alone we must have passed 50 abandoned cars (no 4WD, I hasten to add). As we thought road conditions couldn’t worsen, there were no markers, we had to drive over rocks and soft sand.

At about 6 we reached a spectacular sight of sand eroded rocks in the middle of flat desert. Our imaginations ran riot as we saw giant markers and people in the same and our thoughts went back through the ages to when this area saw green with giraffes and teaming with wildlife or was it a sea! Garry and I went for a walk in the warm evening and sat mesmerised for ages in contemplation.

We were on the road by 8.30 as we wanted to reach Ain Guezam (Algerian border) early. As we reached the village, 2 border officials asked us for a life to the border - we of course obliges as we felt this would be beneficial. The journey between town and border was through very soft sand and we were stopped by a Peugeot driver who had driven all the way from Germany with no sand ladders, spade or extra fuel and water. You see so many people in Peugeots as they can be sold for a small fortune in Niger or Mali. It was incredibly hot at the border post but after an hour or so we were on our way. When we reached the Niger Post we discovered they were closed until 4.30 so as it was only 1pm we had a long hot wait. We discovered we had a puncture and Garry had to repair it in the head of the midday sun. There was an artisean, well, an old fart and lots of activity. The lorries full of Nigerians had a sweet cooking aroma so Jackie and I investigated. They told us they steamed very fine couscous over a pot (that had seen a thousand meals) of very suspicious looking meat and they made a bread from wholemeal flour. Goats, Camels and wild dogs ambled among the sun-affected people. We saw a distinct change from the arab culture to the african here. We were very pleased to meet the toureg whose bumps we had treated and he gratefully informed us that he felt much better.

After a very thorough, unpleasant search, we proceeded to the police and customs. The police were fairly jovial but upon entering the customs office we were told that we had to pay 184FT to enter. Thinking this was a bribe we refused and he promptly confiscated our passport and carne. We later learned this was a standard fee and after apologising profusely we were on our way, pleased to leave this border. Found a lovely secluded dune to camp in for the night.

Things are a little tense at times with dear old highly-strung Jackie and we had to zip up for a while till her abuse at Des subsides.

We drove over rocky terrain mixed with feche feche. We reached Adit at about 3, which was signified by the Uranian plant and a dirt dual carriageway with proper signposts. We stopped to gather our thoughts and saw lots of shiny smiling faces asking for cadeaux’s. After searching for an apparently good campsite we gave up and ended up in the first one we saw, that resembled a scrap yard. We returned to town for a drink in the hotel. As we stopped we had hundreds of others from children to be guardians for the cars. Upon entering the hotel we thought we were on safe ground but were overwhelmed by brightly dressed men selling homemade jewellery, knifes, kebabs, cigs, offers for shoe cleaning, changing money, yes name it, they were selling it. We met a German Peugeot sother and a lovely bourourom tribesman. They and the Felani tribes are so graceful and proud but have been reduced to begging style salesmanship. After enough beers to be merry we left the hotel to see a haze of smoke from people cooking on open fires all along the streets and the air was sweet with the aroma of the spicy meat. We returned to the campsite and had a loud jokey evening in the sticking atmosphere. Jackie and I enjoyed our best african shower open air style under the bright moon night. Afterwards when Garry and Des went to shower the wall had fallen down and they were told it was because of the goats!